all things 1.8 in here

[miketribal]

hey this is just a little space that ive made for the 1.8ers out there. considering it is so hard to find anything for the 1.8. i figured we could just post stuff in here to make it easy to find. so please tell us what you found/purchased/built/modified/wedged/stuffed or even broke while trying to add the 1.8s. i know they have 95 ponies stock. ive been able to get 150 out of mine without turbo or nos. but there may be more out there then i know about. so post damn you..... lets get these 1.8s burning.

[The Mighty 1.8]

Well it's about time some one started this!! It seems that this little, although indestructible engine always gets forgotten about in the DSM world. I'm sick of hearing "Just sell it and buy a TSi if you want power" If I wanted a TSi thats what I would have bought in the first place!! Sorry for the venting but most of my friends have TSi's so I hear a lot of that. And what the hell, I can still destroy most of the Cavaliers and Civic's around here!! Now on to my little machine. I haven't dynoed it or anything so I'm not positve about HP, but so far mods include.

-custom intake with K&N
-all the free MAS mods
-adjustable cam gears
-timing advanced
-NGK plugs and wires
-ported & polished intake
-heavily gutted interior
-coming monday - 2.25" 304SS from the enigine back to a magnaflow muffler
-coming soon - underdrive pulleys AEM or AF/X not sure which yet.

I'm guessing maybe 120 HP after the exhaust. Any ideas?

[miketribal]

where did you find an adjustable cam gear for the 1.8..?? i must get that... i am looking for the underdrive pulley also ... ive seen them on http://www.nopi.com.. i think its like $140. a good source of power are the nitrous dry kits. nos/zex/and venom make kits that will work on the 1.8. they run about $499-$699. and they are good for 40 to 80 hp at full throttle.. another addon im looking at is the e-ram. at http://www.electricsupercharger.com it is a little turbine that mounts inline of you intake pipe and mas. at full thottle the e-ram spools up for about .5 - 1.5 lds of boost. not as much as a full blown turbo. but its good for 5 - 20 hp depending on your mods and its about $300... last i know about is the test pipe.. available at http://www.mufflertech.com its about $30 and can free up 10-20 hp. but where did you find the cam gear??? i really could use that because when i install the zex kit i deen to retard the timing between 2-4 degrees for 80hp.. please let me know asap

[CappyEclipse93]

yo for that adjustable cam gear, jest go to mvpmotorsports.com, they have a lot of great stuff for the 1.8 there.

[1992eclipse]

maybe you guys can help me out a little... like two days ago i did the cutting the aircan mod and removed the silencer... i did it exactly the way it said in the vfaq and everything... but now the car idles like shit... it will go down to like 400-500 almost stall then bounce up to like 1000 then go back down. one time it actully did stall. and i noticed that when i release the gas in 1-2-3 gears the car will do a weird bounce thing... hard to describe .... like it studders or something. i tried just turning up the idle a little and that didnt work. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance!

dennis

[miketribal]

i didnt see the cam for the 1.8 i saw the ones for the 2.0 maybe they are the same? please help with info on that.

as for 1992eclipse

my car did the same. i dont know why. i adjusted the idle. then i tossed the aircan completely. and replaced the air filter with a k&n. next i had the intake pipe made. still gave me a problem. so i reset the ecu. and the problem went away about a week later. so my guess is to reset the ecu. and let the computer learn the new airflow and adjust from the default setting. hope this helps.

[1992eclipse]

thanks miketribal, i had another guy tell me to reset the ecu too so im going to do that. is there a special way to do that or do you just disconnect the battery for a while?

[miketribal]

just disconnect it for about 15 seconds. it should be long enough to reset and short enough not to lose the radio preset. hope this helps

[1992eclipse]

do any of you know if there is any short shifters out there that fit our car?? thanks

[1992eclipse]

yeah i know i ask alot of questions... but how does that magnaflow muffler sound??? and how much did the whole set up cost? .... i want a new muffler just to add some sound and i know its better to at least put mandrel bent pipes from the cat back but i was thinking of just welding one on. i have been looking at getting a regular borla muffler.. those are supposed to have a deep sound..and not be super loud but i might end up putting a resinator on too if necessary. i dont want it to be like raaaaapppppp... you know, the angry killer bee sound.

[The Mighty 1.8]

Well I got the exhaust installed and was quite happy with it. I decided to only go from the cat back and leave the down pipe and cat for now. The Magnaflow muffler is great!! Nice deep sound. A little on the loud side, I think i'm going to have to have a resonator installed. A little gain in the high end HP with no noticable loss in the low end. I wouldn't go any higher then 2.25" if you're having something custom built though. Any bigger and you might notice some low end loss, depending on your engine mods.

[CappyEclipse93]

I was wonderin that after every performance mod, do u want to reset the ECU? Also, what is the best exhasust I should get for the 1.8? I was thinkin the 2.5 Pacesetter, but I've heard bad things. Also besides intake and exhaust, is there much else to do after?

[1992eclipse]

car is still having problems... Im starting to think that they just happened at the same time as when i cut the air can though. tons of people have done that mod and i shouldnt be having these problems right?? the freekin car wont idle for shi~ and sometimes it actully stalls either while i am driving real slow, like pulling into a parking spot or just stoped in traffic, or just when sitting. So im getting pissed. I have already reset the ecu, cleaned out the TB.. i dunno what else to do. i know theres something called an idle control motor, so maybe thats f-d up or soemthing. im going to have someone take a look at it tomorrow...

[miketribal]

the only other thing i can suggest is go to http://www.dsm.org there you can find some info on fixing something called idle surge. but it may help in your situation. it involve getting some mopar combustion chamber cleaner.. and having a good night and afternoon to let it soak. i hear great results. i say spend the $5 and do the little things like combustion chamber cleaned or using fuel injector cleaner. cause even if it didnt fix the problem at hand... youve done some good for the car. and thats never bad.

also the pacesetter is great. i have it on my 1.8. install was easy. i just went to a local repair shop and had them heat and remove the bolts on the cat (both sides) and put in new ones.(about $20 in labor) that way when i got to it, it would be easy to put in the exhaust. and swap out my cat for the test pipe.

and finally where the hell are these cam gears for the 1.8... i must have. please someone ... anyone...

[StevenSch]

1992eclipse. I think I have your solution. I had this exact same problem. It came when I was installing my fog lights. Anyways... do you know how to control your idle speed? I wish I had a pic of an engine bay right now. Okay, do you know where the Fule Injection is? It should say EFI or ECI er somethin. Stand infront of you engine, with hood open. It is in the center (left and right) and towards the back. There should be a small gold screw looking thing. Rotate that slightly clockwise. It should be pushing down on the "gas" a little. Check your RPM's until they get back up to 900 er whatever u want. When it bounces up and down, that is your computer trying to fix it. That is what I did to fix my problem.

[1992eclipse]

hey thanks for the replies guys!! i have done the fuel additives route, and did the regular idle adjustment screw but is the "biss" something different than that? i checked out the vfaq and it never mentioned anything about 1.8 or 2L but the principle should be the same right? so im printing that right now and will take a look at that tomorrow. didnt end up seeing my mechanic friend today, i slept in. But i did go and buy some oil and change my oil since the baby was due for it. i even did a motor flush .... which i have never done before so i hope the car doesnt fall apart. also i have to get a mechanic to find out whats leaking oil... cause somethin in there leaks like a biiiiaaattchhh.. lol. somehwere in the head gasket area. but its not that gasket.

[Doc Overclock]

Daaaammn. Go away for a little while, and that's when the interesting posts start rolling in. That'll teach me to not check here on a regular basis! [lol].

ANYWAYS, I found something interesting at MSD Ignitions that maybe if enough of us bug them about, they'll either test or make a version specifically for our cars. Go here to see it: http://www.msdignition.com/1mdcspw.htm

It's a modified distributor cap for (forgive me for mentioning the dark side here) Hondas and Accura's, that allows you to use an external ignition coil.

Let's face it, the intergrated coil in our distributors suck. The dang thing can't generate a lot of power at high RPM's, which is an oxymoron if you think about it since the engine runs at high RPM's due to its size. You could use Nology Hotwires (like I have) and you will notice an improvement, but with a better coil under the hood you'll get more power at high RPM's with normal wires (and not have to worry about the Nology wires breaking down after some time).

One of the stumbling blocks I keep hearing about is that the 1.8l uses a transistorized coil. I personally don't believe its a problem since the 2.0l uses a transistorized coil as well, and I've heard of people putting in bigger coils for those engines. If I'm right, the distributor on a Honda or Accura is probably transistorized too, so a modified cap *should* be feasible on our 1.8's.

If any of you would be interested in such a cap, I say drop MSD a line asking them to look into creating one for our engines. They probably feel that there isn't a market for it, but if we show enough interest, they could at least look into it if one of the existing caps would work. The trick is we have to bug them.


-Doc

[Doc Overclock]

Been doing some reasearch on my own about installing a bigger/better dist. coil a 1.8l engine.

I stopped by two bone yards and found one 1.8l Eclipse (unknown model year). I could find a ton of 2.0l Eclipses, but I literally only found ONE 1.8l. Go figure..

Anyways, I bought the distributor from it so I could tear it down and examine how the thing works. From what I've gathered so far, I've noticed that there's two different versions of the distributor. The distributor I got from the boneyard has a different wiring harness than the one in my '94 Eclipse.

After tearing down the distributor I discovered something interesting. At least on the distributor I bought, the power transistor is intergrated directly into the distributor coil. The coil itself only has three leads on it, and the high voltage tower.

The wiring on the distributor in my '94 Eclipse looks very different by comparison. I'm going to have to locate a similar distributor in a boneyard to see if it's the same internally.

After seeing this I did some searching on the 'net. From what I've read, the 2.0l uses an external power transistor. If I'm right, it should be possible to use the power transistor from a 2.0l engine to drive a bigger coil on the 1.8l (I'll post pics of the ridiculously small coil. After seeing it, it'll make more sense why I want to ditch the damn thing). You'd have to splice into the wiring harness to get the correct signal leads and you'd also have to mod a distributor cap with an MSD "Power Tower" connector to inject the power from the external coil into the cap.

The only thing I'm going to have to look into is the two different distributors. Damn, why can't this ever be easy? :)


-Doc

[1992eclipse]

Doc, I can read what your saying ... but the stuff your doing is wayyy over my head. lol.. just wanted to throw that in.
AND
does anyone have the short shifter that Extreme Motorsports makes... errr.. that extreme motorsports cuts i should say. its a stock shifter thats cut a re-threaded i think. It says "For all 2.0L turbo or non-turbo cars." Does that mean ALL non-turbo cars or just 2L non turbos?? I dont know if there are differences in the shifter assembly, i only have expierence with my 1.8. thanks guys

[dude in a mirage]

miketribal,
I was just curious what it took to get your 1.8L SOHC 12 valve engine (are these specs correct so far?) up from 95hp to 150hp. That is a good 58% more power if you are talking about at the flywheel. If you mean that you have 150hp at the wheels then that is more like an 82% gain in power or so. Have you noticed any longevity of parts issues arrising from making that much power on your engine? Is it driveable on the street?

Also wondering what the bore and stroke is on your 1.8L engines. Thanks....just a fellow mitsubishi 1.8L motor owner (the 16valve mirage 1.8L that is).

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by 1992eclipse
Doc, I can read what your saying ... but the stuff your doing is wayyy over my head. lol.. just wanted to throw that in.

Heh. It's not really difficult. The hard part is figuring how tab A fits into slot B. It's all there, just a matter of figuring out how it all interconnects. Like I mentioned in another post, if anything I'm a persistant SOB. :D

If it makes it any easier, here's how it should all work:

1) Re-route the three signal/power leads that go to the intergrated power transistor/Coil, and route them to an external power transistor (either from a 2.0l or from a 2G).

2) Wire the leads from the power transistor to an MSD Blaster coil.

3) Add an MSD Power Tower to the stock distributor cap, and then just add the wire from the coil to the cap.

Of course this all sounds easy. :D Actually DOING it is another story. Mitsubishi isn't making it easy to do it either. =\

Consequently, if it's possible to rewire the ignition to use an external coil, it should also be possible to add an ignition amplifier. I'd rather add an MSD SCI, but that'd be A LOT of work to splice into the crank angle sensor, with questionable results. Oh well. Can't have everything. I wish I could have been there when the guy who designed the 1.8's ignition system thought of the all-in-one crapola. I'd have given him a piece of my mind for coming up with what he did. Not only is it underpowered, it isn't any less money to manufacture then having all the parts separate. Heck, it's MORE MONEY to fix, since you have to ditch the entire distributor to just fix one thing. Nice, huh?


-Doc

[miketribal]

hey... nice to see this post hasnt died. unlike how i feel i just got my wisdom teeth (all 4) but the drugs are good...

--dude in a mirage...
get in ouch with ballos... they are in va. i dont have there number off hand ... but i originally found it on this site. but anyhow.. they will work that 1.8 if you let them and have the $$ i just sent them a 1.8 head and said "gimme power" the valve job was 125 and the porting is 65 an hour. just depends how perfect you want it. when it come to #s i suck. but they spent an hour just talk with me on the phone. maybe you can call them get some specs and do it local to you... they also told me that they could bore the hell out of the block , and set it up with new pistons. for some more punch....

-- on another note i found a 2.0 turbo egine and harness and ecu. the guy has some dead dsms. and said he would give me everything i need to drop it in my 1.8... i.e engine , turbo , wire harness , ecu , the bigger engine mount thingy, flywheel , stock intercooler... and all the piping... he said give him $1000... sounds good to me... any input from you all?he said there is alittle dark secret in the dsm world.. i thing he said the 1.8 is a 6 bolt type.. and that i could pop a 2.0 flywheel (6 bolt) and it would work just fine. i guess he has been replacing trannies for a while on the dsm.... well lemme know what you think?

[Doc Overclock]

I think I have finally found the answer on how to improve the 1.8L's pathetically weak ignition system.

It looks like somebody else has already been down the path I have been traveling, but has come back with some answers.

http://home.att.net/~t.vago/msd_ignition-howto.html

The page is specific to a Chrysler Sebring Convertible, but the engine that car is using is a 2.5l Mitsubishi built motor. I've attempted to contact the author of the page to verify a few things, but just from a prelimiary look at things, I'm *ALMOST* 99.999999% positive that it can also be applied to our cars. Pay specific attention to the first part on the page (Ignition Amplifier Construction). When I compared the wiring at that site to a wirig schematic for my car, it looks almost identical. The biggest difference is the wiring color codes (and his inclusion of resistors).

I'm in the process of hunting down a wiring diagram for the Sebring to double-check everything. Obviously with the holidays coming around, I won't be able to physically try this with my car this month. If everything looks right, perhaps I may be able to try this sometime in the beginning of next year.


-Doc

[indy1979]

Just to answer the question of the short throws, YES the 2.0L shifters will bolt into the 1.8L. There is absolutely no differnece in the shifter from the 1.8 to the 2.0. I'm currently in the process of building a 4G63 to drop into my Talon DL. The only things I have left to purchase is the ecu and wiring harness.

[1992eclipse]

ahh thats very cool, thanks Indy1979. Im still into the "seat-of-your-pants" upgrades and cosmetic stuff cause i have only had the car for a few months. But i have been reading everything i possibly can about DSM's (especally on this site.. its awesome the ammount of info on here.) Someday my car will be truly modded but for now its just looking sweet. =)

[indy1979]

One thing that I do reccommend with the short throw is that shifter bushing upgrade thingie that I forget who makes, bsically its to steel sleves and metal bushings. The shift is sooooo much more true now.

[Antilles]

Hey, why dont you guys all sell your cars and...

heh, sorry guys. i get that all the time with my busted ass car. engine, clutch, and now tranny all within a couple months.

anyhow, i was wondering if you guys could give me a list of "under $100 mods" for a 1.8 92 Eclipse. its a friend of mine. he spanked my old base CRX (92hp auto) but i think he might go down against my other friends stock SOHC neon(auto-~125hp w/intake and bored TB).
the 1.8 is a stick. what do you guys think? what it gonna take?

*edit* sorry if this is a double post, but this server is such a POS. i dont even dare trying to surf more than 1 forum/~5 threads per night.

[indy1979]

Originally posted by Antilles
Hey, why dont you guys all sell your cars and...

heh, sorry guys. i get that all the time with my busted ass car. engine, clutch, and now tranny all within a couple months.

anyhow, i was wondering if you guys could give me a list of "under $100 mods" for a 1.8 92 Eclipse. its a friend of mine. he spanked my old base CRX (92hp auto) but i think he might go down against my other friends stock SOHC neon(auto-~125hp w/intake and bored TB).
the 1.8 is a stick. what do you guys think? what it gonna take?

*edit* sorry if this is a double post, but this server is such a POS. i dont even dare trying to surf more than 1 forum/~5 threads per night.

I can't really help you on that subject except for how to completely tear it down. And basically the only thing that entails is "TAKE OUT ALL THE BOLTS!!", Thats the only thing I know about 1.8L engines. Thats what mine had in it when I bought it for $300 needing a new engine and thats when I decided to upgrade to the 4G63.

[1992eclipse]

just a random thought... does anyone know what some of the specifics are on our 1.8's? like what rpm do you make the max torque & hp? ohh and heres what happened today.. i had found a red 1.8 in my area that was for sale, the body was in good condition ... no dents or dings at all but the paint was sorta crappy.. and the engine was blown. so it was for sale for $200. I was like allllright, this is cool. But i was on my way to school to get some dumb paper signed. The dumb a** school took 2 1/2 hours to sign a freggin paper and when i went back past the car it was already gone! life sucks!!

[Doc Overclock]

1.8L specs. From my Popular Mechanics automotive repair info CD (it's not as good as the DSM Manual Backup CD, but it gets the job done):


Bore & Stroke: 3.17x3.39

Compression Ratio: 9 to 1

Max Net HP @ RPM: 92 @ 5000 RPM

Max Torque, Ft. Lbs @ RPM: 105 @ 3500

Normal Oil Pressure: 11.4 PSI (at idle speed w/oil temp between 167F to 194F

[Maurice]

tribal, that car in your sig is a joke right???

[Indyxc]

Originally posted by Maurice
tribal, that car in your sig is a joke right???

I hope so, because that car is ricey as hell.

Peter

[1992eclipse]

hey hey you guys be nice!!!!! ... i think that really is his car. And from a moderator??? come on you should know better!
p.s.~~> do you guys have 1.8's???

[Doc Overclock]

I've seen worse... MUCH worse than that (www.beaterz.com for example). Besides, at least he has actually modded his car unlike the majority of the ricers out there.

While it certainly isn't my style, I say all the more power to Mike.


-Doc

[Indyxc]

Originally posted by 1992eclipse
hey hey you guys be nice!!!!! ... i think that really is his car. And from a moderator??? come on you should know better!
p.s.~~> do you guys have 1.8's???

Hey me being a moderator, has nothing to do with my view on his car.

Ricey isn't bad, it's just his taste in style.

Peter

[1992eclipse]

hey sorry, i must have read it wrong. If you really meant that being ricey is just his style, thats fine... it is i guess. I read it as you making fun of the guy who is getting 150hp out of a 1.8... which is pretty awesome.

[CappyEclipse93]

i have to agree though...u wanna race, u shud get a turbo. The 1.8 can only push so much. It's best used as a gas saver. unfortunately, it's all i have to work with, but im happy with it. only thing i want is that my car runs.

By the way, I got a question. My idle is lower than what it used to be, and it seems like my car is overrevving wen i try to WOT on every gear. My friend says its just the winter, but i dont kno. Any help is appreciated.

[dsm93talon]

i opened this thread up again at the request of the original thread starter. One more misuse and the starter of the shit will be axed from this site

[miketribal]

thanx dsm93talon , for understanding... this is great.. you rule...

[miketribal]

does any one know if the corner lights are the same on the talon + eclipse? im looking to buy clear corner lights and i found a pair for 90-94 eclipse.... any help?

[talon94es]

Hey no offence Miketribal but you could really work on that image of yours. Some ideas might be to clean it up a little and make it a little smaller. Also, try and get a day shot of yoru ride so we can see what it looks like during the day. Other than that.. go 1.8's go!!

[miketribal]

ill get a day shot asap... i think it looks better at night... but thats me... and ill figure a way to decrease the size. any help?

[Doc Overclock]

Although the admins haven't tagged me yet, I just double-checked my sig and it's over too. I'll fix it tonight when I get home.

You can download a free trial version of Paint Shop Pro and use it's wizard to optimize the picture. You can get it from the manufacturer's site (www.jasc.com).

Alternatively, just send the picture to me and I can optimize it for you if you want. It'll only take a few seconds to do it. Depending on picture size, the optimizer can whittle it down to 8k (that's what mine works out to be after I just ran the converter on it.. but since I'm at work writing this I can't replace the version in my sig until later. =\ ).


-Doc

[talon94es]

Originally posted by miketribal
ill get a day shot asap... i think it looks better at night... but thats me... and ill figure a way to decrease the size. any help?
Mike, your should be able to re-size that puppy using any Image editing program. I use Photoshop since its the best their is but you should probably follow one of the links to Paint shop pro. Its simple to resize your photos and freshen them up. You can adjust size/color/contrast/brightness and make photos look really good. Have fun! Also, looks like the Admin came in and "adjusted" some signature pictures ;)

[miketribal]

ill be workin on pics this weekend...
does anyone know about fxdesigns body kits im looking to get one... its 328$ and i think it kicks a$$... ive looked at andys and street weapon... any suggestions? also check out http://www.massivemotorsports.com/ they got some cool stuff for g1s that we can use...

[CrackmoJon]

Hey guys, its good too see a few posts for the 1.8L in here. We're so slow!!!!!!!!!!!!! J/K...I've beaten a lot of hondas (big whoop, right) and even my friends '89 5.0 Mustang GT on the autocross. Even though our cars are lacking in turbo, we still aren't the slowest things on the road. Anyway, has anyone here had any success converting a 1st Gen 1.8 to a 1st Gen 2.0 Turbo? I really wanted to do that. Either that, or just make my car look really nice so I can sell it and buy an old 1g to mod. Either way, it won't happen for a while. I'm lacking on funds so I won't be doing anything until probably after college. Anyway, I love my 1.8L, and it looks so very nice, and its good to see other people care about them too!

Jon

[1992eclipse]

I havent done that conversion... would love to do it but like you i dont have the money/afraid that i would screw it up.. lol. But there is at least one guy that has done it i think. Dont know his name but he posts all the time. In his sig there is a pic of his car, its bright blue. I think that he has even listed things that are needed to do it before too in some threads. good luck!

[MindBlowin03]

Originally posted by CrackmoJon
Anyway, has anyone here had any success converting a 1st Gen 1.8 to a 1st Gen 2.0 Turbo?
Jon

I think his name is 'Mavisky' or something like that. He converted a 2.0 N/T to a 1G 2.0 Turbo. Not sure if hes even done yet, but I know he had some problems.

[MindBlowin03]

Has anyone ever switched guage clusters before? I wanted to put a 2.0 N/T cluster in my 1.8L. Not to cheat milage or anything(89K on mine), but the 1.8L only has a redline of 6K and the 2.0 is 7K. I wonder if it would work?

[cdstalon]

Mavisky is his login name, but his real name is Kyle. He converted a 2.0 NT to a turbo and it was complete, up, and running until he burnt out a bearing I think. I'm also in the midst of converting my 2.0 to a turbo, but the engines are different. If I were you, I'd look into it to see if the manifold off of the TSi's could be used, and then check to see if you have the same oil pans... blah blah, I'm lazy, if you are really interested, send me an email and I'll tell you what to check if you really want to try the conversion. The corner lights from 2.0's will work on the 90-91s, b/c I used the corner lights off of a 91 1.8 to clear mine on my 1991 2.0 N/T and they are the same as the turbo versions. You probably could swap in a 2.0 gauge cluster, but it wouldn't make your redline 7k, just makes it look like it, so what's the point?

[BioWeapon-X]

Hey sup guys

I just got a new 1.8 lt laser about a 2-3wks ago. the first day i got it my friend and i smoked a civic and grand am(well we smoked him for about 5 sec, then he killed us) i consider that a win.
anyways i was wondering if you guys know anything about a seatbelt warranty or anything like that b/c the seatbelt on the the drivers side does not close, when the door closes. any help would be appreciated.

[MindBlowin03]

I dont think theres any kind of warranty. Youll prolly have to take it to a garage. And from what Ive heard, these auto seatbelts are a bitch to work on.

[miketribal]

hey guys... hee is a few things....

here is the # for ballos the guys tha will port and polish your 1.8 head... and do the vale job... as well as ofer to do just about anything to your engine .. they offered to machine mybloc.. and get some piston and crankarms to magically fit in it... they are good and are willing to help out with whatever they can... he stayed on the phone with mefor an hour answering my dump questions... anyhow here is the # 804-264-5563

on the cam regrinds i found anothe company that will do it for $80 called scheinder... but the number is on my boat... so ill get that to you later.

ive been offered all orts of deal on 2.0 engines... turbo engines... but maube... with alitte work and $$ i coul push my 1.8 over 200 hp...withou nos or turbo.... i think it could be done... thats only anoter 50 for my engine.... probley get that from boring out the block... lightened pulleys... any takers??? an ideas?
__________________

[MindBlowin03]

The mighty 1.8....
Can you give me some info on these?

-adjustable cam gears
-timing advanced

I seen these are a few mods you have, I would be interested in checking them out.

[miketribal]

i cant find any cam gears for the 1.8.... i think our only hope is to see if the 2.0 cam gears will fit the 1.8...

[MindBlowin03]

How do you advance the timing? Can someone please explain?

[miketribal]

it has to wit the timing of the car ... im going to take a stab at this. there is 3 ways you timing can be

normal. basically propery timed which we call 0 degrees (the whole buisness of setting the cam insinc. with the piston shaft so the it will open to allow air\fuel into the chamber, then close the valves when the piston is up and then re-open to allow gasses to escape via exhaust)

advanced. the timing is pushed ahaed lets say +2 degrees(with an adustable cam you can turn the belt. and not move the cam until you reach your drired degree.. usually marked on the cam gear.) this supposably give you more power.

retarded. the timing is set back )the camis turned back to the desired negative degree like -2 degrees fo example. people tend to retard there timing when dealing with nitrous enhanced engines.)

i hope this helps alittle... im not good at explaning stuff... and i could have said it all wronge. butthis is what i know

[segaboyvt]

What I wanna know is what you did and how you got 150 HP out of your 1.8. How much did it soak you for? $$$ I love my 1.8 Eclipse. I would love to know how to get that kind of power.

I found that the 1.8 is substancially lighter then the rest of the pack. In some cases, about 500 lbs. check out www.nadaguides.com.

So, with the right setup this car could be real sweet in acceleration and cornering!!! :D

[dude in a mirage]

ahh...the headwork explains it but is that dyno'd hp numbers or just a guestimate based on cars you've raced or 1/4 mile times?

Don't use re-ground camshafts! They will wear out fast and if the 1.8L has hydraulic lash adjusters they won't like it at all. If you have a mechanical lash you will be adjusting it every month with re-ground cams.

In fact if you have mechanical lash adjustments....on the intake side try tightening it up .002" past the stock factory recommendations. That will give you .002" more lift on the intake valves (hardly noticeable but every bit helps).

I think www.rpw.com.au has camshafts for the 4G37 motors...not completely sure though (that is the 1.8L in your car right?) If they don't have it listed on the website email Dave Thomas from RPW and ask him about getting some made (he usually will make whatever grind you want on a new billet camshaft). With shipping from Australia included in the price expect to pay around $350 or so (shipping is expensive).

[90Eclipse]

Have any of you guys remove the balance shaft from you 4g37?

[talon167]

:D
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid28/p88281165009833bea59b5560f3deb286/fe102e7a.jpg

[miketribal]

merry X-mass to all.... its been a good holiday... i got a short throwshifter and a stru bar frommy wife... is lifesweet or what.. andit as for the right car too..

[miketribal]

anyone know where to find a rear strut bar?

[Mjmnam]

Anyone know where i could get a decent cat-back for the 1.8?
i heard pacesetter had one for around $150 but i can't find that anywhere.

[miketribal]

Mjmnam

try
http://www.jcwhitney.com/JCWSportCompact.jhtml

or
www.nopi.com

hope this helps , i got mine from jcw.

[indy1979]

To advance or retard the timing on a 1.8L, loosen the bolts that hold the distributor to the head, then turn in either direction to advance or retard. A timing light will help out ALOT!!!!!

[Mjmnam]

Pardon the stupid question, but, which way is which?

(clockwise = advance?)

[MindBlowin03]

Why would anyone want to retard the timing? Is there an advantage in that? Also, if I were to advance it, would there be a noticable differance? One more... What is a timing light? Thanks.

[miketribal]

you would retard the timing in cases whee youd use nitrous... nitros and advanced timing dont get along ver well

[indy1979]

ok, I think clockwise is advance. A timing light looks like a gun, and its has three wires on it. One wire for the positive terminal on the battery, one for the negative terminal, and the thrid you hook on to your #1 (cylinder #1) spark plug wire. What it does is every time current goes thru the spark plug wire the timing light will flash. You aim the light at the crankshaft pulley and you will notice a line every time the light flashes. This is your timing mark, it should come stock at 0 degrees. when you start moving the distributor the line will move up or down depending on which way you turn it. Hope this helps.

[MindBlowin03]

How far is it recommended to move this? Is there a too far, or not far enough?

[indy1979]

when doing it you will hear the engine rev up a little bit and once you've gone too far the idle will drop back down again. so basically just guess at the peak point to put it.

[MindBlowin03]

So you do this while the car is running?

[indy1979]

yes, while the car is running.

[1992eclipse]

just wanted to say that i hope everyone had a great christmas and new years!! ....im sure we all need a few extra hp now to cart out fat butts around from all that holiday food! haha. Ok listen to this, my girlfriend bought me a new socket wrench cause i broke the 2 that i had. And not only did she get me a tool but she got a damn good one, adjustable head, quick release, Craftsman. So i can just bring it back if it ever breaks. how cool is that?? She also got me a real nice shammi (sp?) a real one i think they are made of leather. Some wax, a "california car duster" and some clothes. I think im going to have to marry that girl. lol. Ohh and she just got me Fast and the Furious. Ohh and get this, shes hott too. hehehe i have to have something to brag about if i dont have a fast car!
anyways...
I dont remember who it was but way back on the first page of the thread someone said they had just gotten a Magnaflow muffler. I was wondering which one they bought (Ultra Flo? SS Ultra Flo? or someother one?) Because i was looking at them and i noticed that the stainless steel one actully flows at a different rate than the normal ultra flo. If anyone has heard or has one of these mufflers any imput would be appreciated. And for a muffler shop to custom bend mandral bend pipes would that be about $200 or so? One of my friends said it would be something like that. How much do they get just to weld stuff on, like the tip or the actual muffler? thanks guys

dennis

[indy1979]

Ohh and get this, shes hott too.

Well, where are the pics at man?!?!?!?!

[The Mighty 1.8]

mindblowin03

1. Cam gears: I had mine given to me so I'm not exactly sure where they came from originally, I will definitly try to find out though. My timing is advanced aproximately 2 degrees. This does add some extra power but also adds some annoying problems. The biggest problem is extra fuel consumtion at low speeds and idle. Don't know how much of an issue this is to you but you will notice decreased gas milage. Another problem, since you are sending more fuel to your engine when you let up on the gas there is excess unburnt gas making it's way out of the engine into your exhuast. When the fuel hits the exhuast you get some nasty popping noises. Only happens whens you decellerate hard from high speeds. Also depending on where you live advanced timing will make you fail emissions tests, as I found out!!

1992eclipse

2. The exhuast: I had a SS Magnaflow muffler installed as well as 2.25" SS409 piping from the cat back, and a high flow cat converter. Ended up costing about $400 canadian. For me that was a little more then the Pacesetter system would have cost but I got a much better set up. No bottom end loss and a big improvement above 3000 rpm, and that sweet throaty sound!! For our little anemic cars don't pay the extra money for mandrel bent. You won't notice any diff. That's only my two cents other people will tell you otherwise and hey, it's your money!!

[1992eclipse]

wow... isnt that like $200 american dollars?? i think thats about right... its like half right? in that case where did you order your muffler from? i have found it a few places and its $100 everywhere.

I know that the mandrel bent pipes flow better cause they dont have the ridges like crushed bends do. But dont they have an effect on sound? like i thought that pops and those types of noises were mostly from the piping, specifically crush bent pipes. Because if mandrel beands will make my car not make a poping noise when i put a better exhaust on to me it would be worth it. lol... you know just so people arent ducking as you drive by cause they think they are being shot at or soemthing like that. lol.. just kidding. But i seriously dont wnat that poping noise. And what about the high flow cat? do those effect the sound greatly? the power gain i suppose would be quite minimal if at all.

About my girlfriend, i really dont have a good picture of her... just prom pictures and things like that on my computer... but i will get a good one sometime!

dennis

[The Mighty 1.8]

No the mandrel bent has no affect on noise. Trust me the exhaust being pushed out of our little 1.8's is not going to be hindered by crush bent pipes. You here alot about mandrel bent on this site mostly because of the turbo cars. For them there is a noticable difference between mandrel and press bent. But there exhaust is also much hotter and the turbo pushes out a much greater volume of hot eshuast fumes. If you want mandrel bent then go for it, but in my opinion save yourself some money for some much more usefull parts. And as for the popping noise as long as your timing is fine you won't have it. The popping is caused by unburnt gasoline hitting the heated metal of your exhaust then rapidly burning as it travels down the exhuast and out your tailpipe. I also had this when I had the stock exhuast, but and bigger and better exhuast system just seems to have amplified the noise. So if your car doesn't do this now it won't when you have a new exhuast.

The highflow cat I didn't really find did a whole hell of a lot but it was roughly the same price as a stock cat, and I needed a new one anyway, so why not toss one on.

[1992eclipse]

hey guys i wanted to say thanks for all your responces and never talking to me like im a dumb ass.
i will be skipping the mandrel bend pipes... "mighty 1.8" thanks for the help
.....ok here comes another one... lol
A friend of mine who is one here checked out some mufflers for me and said that the "duel chambered flowmaster" is a muffler that makes a seriously deep tone without being extreamly loud. Like it sets off car alarms when you drive by lol.. that would be real funny. So has anyone ever heard one of these? he told me a place i can get my old muffler cut off, this one welded on, with a tip (like 3 or 4 inchs ..dont remember) for $130. That sounds good to me if it delivers that type of sound. (which is what im going for)

[Mjmnam]

Anyone recommend some good plugs to use in our 1.8s?
I tried some Bosch Platinum +4's and it seemed like i lost some low end power, i think i may have gained in high end (this is just my ass telling me this). Anyway, i figured i'd play with different plugs.

[indy1979]

DO NOT MESS WITH THE PLUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Use only the plugs that came from the factory or equivalent.

I'm running the autolite 3924 plugs, Platinum and double platinum will kill the coils, they work in a different way than regular resistor plugs.

Use something equal to the manufacturer.

A little tip:

Split fire, +4, and all those other POS plugs don't do dick. They foul out faster, thats it.

[Mjmnam]

wow, that sucks. I already figured out the +4's didn't do anything. I didn't know about the platinum thing though. Thanks man. What are the NGK plugs i should use?

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by indy1979
DO NOT MESS WITH THE PLUGS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Use only the plugs that came from the factory or equivalent.

I'm running the autolite 3924 plugs, Platinum and double platinum will kill the coils, they work in a different way than regular resistor plugs.

Use something equal to the manufacturer.

A little tip:

Split fire, +4, and all those other POS plugs don't do dick. They foul out faster, thats it.

That's odd. I've run Bosch Platinum and Platinum +4's in my 1.8 without any problems (ran then each for about 50,000 miles, give or take a few miles).

I'll admit that I didn't notice any difference running those plugs. I'm currently running ACDelco Spitfires (note: NOT the plugs called SpLitfires, but "spitfire"). The car definitely idles smoother and runs a little better at highway speeds, but then again I expected it to after changing the plugs.

The only thing I've done that made a difference in how my car ran was using Nology Hotwires. The car definitely felt stronger after adding these wires. Too bad I keep hearing that the wires wear out after a year or so.


-Doc

[Mjmnam]

How would Platinum plugs destroy the coils? I thought the only difference was how long the metal lasted. One more thing, How do i tell when the plugs have gone bad? Misfire, wierd exhaust color, just plain sluggish car?

[indy1979]

OK, the way platinum plugs work:

Spark is discharged from the coil, goes thru the plug wire, into the plug, thru the head, back into another plug, and back into the coil. Platinum plugs fire in both directions. The coils that use platinum plugs are desigend to accept the charge coming back from the plug.

Platinum and double plat. plugs last generally about 75K to 100K miles. If they are matched with the correct coil.

Misfires usually mean bad plug wires. Sluggish, noticeable power loss, excess fuel comsumption are all signs of plugs that have worn down.

Exhaust colors:

Blue = oil
White = coolant / water
Balck = excess carbon

Hope this helps. ;)

Sam

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by indy1979
OK, the way platinum plugs work:

Spark is discharged from the coil, goes thru the plug wire, into the plug, thru the head, back into another plug, and back into the coil. Platinum plugs fire in both directions. The coils that use platinum plugs are desigend to accept the charge coming back from the plug.

Platinum and double plat. plugs last generally about 75K to 100K miles. If they are matched with the correct coil.

Misfires usually mean bad plug wires. Sluggish, noticeable power loss, excess fuel comsumption are all signs of plugs that have worn down.

Ummm.. your incorrect.

What you just described is electrically impossible. There's only one wire going from the coil to the spark plugs (VIA the spark plug wires). The only way what you described could happen is if power were to feed back along the same line, going against the current that's being fed into it. If that'd happen, you'd have a lot more to worry about than a fried ignition coil. There's no way to make a coil that's build to take this either. Essentially you'd have to put in a surge arrestor inline with the secondary coil output, but this would also limit the power coming OUT from the coil too. There's other factors against this too, as the supressor/arrestor would quickly burn out from overheating. For example, get a diode and attach it to a 9v battery. In one polarity, it'll allow the current to go through (dropping it down to around 5 to 7V though). Reverse it, and it'll stop the current, but it'll also get warm (this depends on diode really). It gets warm because although it's stopping the current, a small amount still leaks past the juction internally.

Now, increase the voltage to 40,000 volts and reverse the current a few hundred times a minute. In a short amount of time you'll end up with an infinite resistor, blocking voltage in both directions. :D

The whole idea behind Platinum and Iridium plugs is that they last longer and supposedly provide a hotter spark as Platinum and Iridium is a better conductor of electricity than copper.

The purpose of having a four electrodes on the Platinum +4's is to provide three additional potential grounding points for the spark to jump across. Since the Platinum in the plug can conduct electricity better than a copper plug, more of the voltage from the coil makes it to the plug gap, making a hotter spark.

Although I never noticed any ill effects from running both the regular Platinum and Platinum +4 plugs in my car, I never noticed any real benefit either. This probably has more to do with the fact that the coil in the 1.8l distributor is rather anemic. If you do have a bad experience with them, it's more likely you either got a bad set of plugs, your wires are not up to snuff, or you need to change your cap and rotor.

Oh yeah.... Here's how the ignition system in the 1.8l works:

1) The ECU gets a signal from the cam/crank angle sensor in the distributor that the piston is near TDC on the compression stroke.

2) The ECU sends a firing signal to the ignition coil to fire. Since the signal from the ECU is extremely weak, the signal is actually sent to the gate on a power transistor (the Ignition Amplifier in most other applications) that's intergrated into the coil. The transistor now conducts and sends 12V into the primary winding of the ignition coil. The ECU signal also feeds from this point to the injectors and the tachometer.

3) One end of the secondary winding is connected to ground, while the other end is connected to the tower portion (in a 1.8l, this part connects to the cap internally). The 12 volts in the primary is stepped up to ~40,000 volts in the secondary winding.

4) The power from the secondary winding now travels into the distributor cap. Once the rotor nears the appropriate plug terminal inside the cap and the power reaches a certain potential, it jumps the gap between the cap and the rotor and travels down the spark plug wires.

5) Once the power reaches the plugs, if the plugs contain an internal resistor, it lowers the voltage a little to help control EMI/RFI. The power goes down the inside of the plug, and then jumps across the gap in the plug (igniting the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder), and grounding out against the engine block. Since one lead of the secondary winding in the coil is also grounded, this completes the circuit.

Even in a quad electrode spark plug, the grounding point is really the threaded portion of the plug. The spark takes the path of least resistance and jumps the gap to the electrodes since it can't get through the ceramic insulation. No matter which electrode the spark jumps to though, it's still going to the same grounding point (the threads on the plug, which is screwed into the engine block).

Finally, in your explanation, the spark does not travel from one plug to another. It's electrically impossible since they are both grounded to the same spot. For that to happen, the spark would have to jump the gap in the intended plug, travel to an adjacent plug, jump IN REVERSE the gap on that plug from the electrodes to the annode, travel back up the wire, jump OVER the gap between the cap and rotor, and finally make it's way back to the coil.

I'm sorry. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but your explanation is incorrect.



-Doc

[Mjmnam]

How do you tell when a catalytic converter goes bad? (if they even do). My car has the stock cat and 147k miles. just a few days ago i noticed some wierd liquid kind of spitting out of the exhaust pipe..any idea what this could be?

[1992eclipse]

Mjmnam: it was probably just water... hot exhaust and cold air hitting each other makes the air condense and hence you get water out the tail pipe.. touch it and see if its colored or not.. if its clear its water... if not i have no clue

dennis

[Antilles]

water means your cat IS working. it turns the exhaust gasses into water. your cat looks like a screen, only much deeper. if it "went bad" all those fins in there would have to collapse choking your exhaust and causing serious power loss.

[rosman4u]

This forum is pretty cool, I'm new to this site, I never thought there was anybody else that would bother modding a 1.8 dsm like I would. I got my 93 eclipse 1.8 back 1/20/01 right after I sold my 91 mustang 5.0 (I sold the car since I didn't want to bother fixing the auto tranny and didn't want to bother with the conversion, also had a 92 honda prelude SI) truth is I loved the car and plan to get one again, but I do appreciate all racers in general, it comes down to the sport for me not the car. I got this car for the gas mileage and found myself starting to mod, the only one I've done so far is 2.5" exhaust from the headers back to a ractive dual tip muffler. I have to admit its a nice sound and pretty loud, I will soon post up a website of my car and its mods to come.:D

[indy1979]

Originally posted by Doc Overclock


Ummm.. your incorrect.

What you just described is electrically impossible. There's only one wire going from the coil to the spark plugs (VIA the spark plug wires). The only way what you described could happen is if power were to feed back along the same line, going against the current that's being fed into it. If that'd happen, you'd have a lot more to worry about than a fried ignition coil. There's no way to make a coil that's build to take this either. Essentially you'd have to put in a surge arrestor inline with the secondary coil output, but this would also limit the power coming OUT from the coil too. There's other factors against this too, as the supressor/arrestor would quickly burn out from overheating. For example, get a diode and attach it to a 9v battery. In one polarity, it'll allow the current to go through (dropping it down to around 5 to 7V though). Reverse it, and it'll stop the current, but it'll also get warm (this depends on diode really). It gets warm because although it's stopping the current, a small amount still leaks past the juction internally.

Now, increase the voltage to 40,000 volts and reverse the current a few hundred times a minute. In a short amount of time you'll end up with an infinite resistor, blocking voltage in both directions. :D

The whole idea behind Platinum and Iridium plugs is that they last longer and supposedly provide a hotter spark as Platinum and Iridium is a better conductor of electricity than copper.

-Doc

Ok, let me explain this a little better.

With an engine running double plat plugs, there is a process calles "way-spark".

What this means is that the coil can put out either a positive (+) or negative (-) polarity. Now depending on which way the polarity is going at any given time, the spark will either come out of the coil and into the plug, or it will come from the plug to the coil. The coil is acutally absorbing the energy.

You can ask any experienced ASE mechanic and he will tell you the same thing I just did.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

Ok, since you seem to know what you're talking about. Will running Bosch Platinum +4s screw up my ignition system?

[indy1979]

For one thing, if you have blowby in your cylinders (Exhaust gases going past the rings into the crankcase and oil coming from the crankcase into the cylinder) the burnt oil will clog the plugs. If the plug is clogged up, the current that is sent thru the wires has no where to ground to for the spark. that will break down the wires, and burn the points up on the cap and rotor button. If it goes too long like this, the power transistor or another portion of the coil will break down and cease to function cause there is nowhere for the voltage to go.

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by indy1979


Ok, let me explain this a little better.

With an engine running double plat plugs, there is a process calles "way-spark".

What this means is that the coil can put out either a positive (+) or negative (-) polarity. Now depending on which way the polarity is going at any given time, the spark will either come out of the coil and into the plug, or it will come from the plug to the coil. The coil is acutally absorbing the energy.

You can ask any experienced ASE mechanic and he will tell you the same thing I just did.

Sam

I did a little digging around the 'net. Here's what I've come up with (taken from http://au.geocities.com/ozbrick850/engine-sparkboschplat.html) :


Bosch acknowledges a problem with using their Bosch Platinum spark plugs in engines with ignition systems that employ 1 coil for each pair of spark plugs (also known as a "waste spark ignition system"). *NOTE: Italics are mine - Doc*

In cars with conventional (1 coil, distributor/rotor) ignition systems (including the 850 Turbo with Bosch 4.3, 4.4 engine mgmt systems), there is no problem. In fact, not too surprisingly, according to Bosch, the maker of the 850's engine management system, the recommended plug is the Bosch Platinum FR7DP, which is what passed with flying colors my tests-under-fire in my engine (see for yourself).

The problem that Bosch has acknowledged when using their Platinum plugs in engines with waste spark ignition systems stems from the tendency of electrode metal to get transferred depending upon the polarity (direction of current flow) of the spark. In waste spark ignition systems, 1/2 of the plugs always see reverse polarity sparks. Given the very narrow platinum
center electrode of the Bosch Platinums, performance will be degraded more significantly when reverse polarity sparks will cause material to be transferred from the large ground/outer electrode onto the narrow platinum center electrode's exposed end surface.


The 1.8L only has one coil/distributor, so given the info that Bosch provides, there would be no problem running Platinum plugs in a 1.8L engine. I can confirm this first hand since I've run both regular Bosch Platinum and Bosch Platinum+4's in my 1994 1.8L Eclipse and I didn't have a single issue with them. Tomorrow I'm going to attempt to call Bosch directly to confirm this information, but after running both types of plugs in my car and not having any ill effects, I'm apt to believe it.

Again, as I stated before though, I never noticed any real gain from running Platinum plugs either.



-Doc

[indy1979]

ok, I just realized I F***ed up. I just re-read the original post that got this whole conversation started. Doc, you are correct in the 1.8L Dist. and what nots. I've got my head filled with all this stuff about the 2.0L, seeing as how thats what I'm building to go into my 1.8 engine bay. I got confused. We were basically saying the same thing, I was just talking about the 2.0 coil packs (which BTW don't employ the waste spark ignition system). I completley lost sight of the fact about the 1.8 dist. SORRY, MY BAD.

Sam

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by indy1979
ok, I just realized I F***ed up. I just re-read the original post that got this whole conversation started. Doc, you are correct in the 1.8L Dist. and what nots. I've got my head filled with all this stuff about the 2.0L, seeing as how thats what I'm building to go into my 1.8 engine bay. I got confused. We were basically saying the same thing, I was just talking about the 2.0 coil packs (which BTW don't employ the waste spark ignition system). I completley lost sight of the fact about the 1.8 dist. SORRY, MY BAD.

Sam

Heh, don't sweat it. Heck, go grab a cold one while your reading the forum (that's what I'm doing at the moment. hehe).

Ya know, something in the back of my head was saying that you were thinking 2.0l instead of the 1.8l. Yeesh, sometimes I think I'm psychot...errr I mean psychic. Just don't call me Ms.Cleo. :D

Oh yeah.. about the plugs fouling. I found some info on that too on that page I linked.

In a nutshell, if your daily commute to work is relatively short (say, under 20 mintues) don't bother with Platinum plugs. What happens is the plugs don't get hot long enough to self-clean and they foul. If your like me and drive over 60 miles (1 1/2 hrs) each way to work, the plugs will always get to their self-cleaning temperature so they should never foul.

One habit you should get into (for any spark plug really) is to periodically check the plugs to make sure they're seated correctly in the block. Even though I tightened down the plugs pretty good, my plugs had managed to work themselves loose somewhat after 50k miles. When I replaced my Bosch Platinum +4 plugs last month, I had some blistering on the electrodes since they were overheating slightly. It was entirely my fault since I didn't re-check them to make sure they were still seated fully. That reminds me.. I gotta re-check the new plugs.


-Doc

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

SUP PEOPLE,

I HAVE A QUESTION IS THERE ANY WAY YOU CAN BYPASS THE MAS ON MY CAR. I HAVE A 93 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 1.8L ....PLEASE SOME ONE HELP ME BECAUSE I REMOVED MINE AND IT RUNS BUT THE IDLE BOUNCES AND MY GAS EATS UP QUICKER........SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME ASAP....





RICHARD

[indy1979]

Originally posted by iSlAnDrAcEr7o2
SUP PEOPLE,

I HAVE A QUESTION IS THERE ANY WAY YOU CAN BYPASS THE MAS ON MY CAR. I HAVE A 93 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 1.8L ....PLEASE SOME ONE HELP ME BECAUSE I REMOVED MINE AND IT RUNS BUT THE IDLE BOUNCES AND MY GAS EATS UP QUICKER........SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME ASAP....





RICHARD

Your car is running crappy because the MAS is out. The only way that I know of to totally bypass the MAS is to install a HKS Vein Pressure Converter. The ecu uses the signal coming from the MAS to know how much fuel to dump into the cylinders. Without it, the ECU is just dumping too much fuel. The best thing that you can do is hack it. The instructions are at http://www.vfaq.com. Try that first.

Sam

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

Hey

I CLICKED ON TO THE LINK AND I COULDNT FIND THE VEIN THING CAN U TELL ME WHERE TO GO PLEASE

AND ALSO DO THEY MAKE HEADERS FOR MY CAR???






RICHARD

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

HEY INDY,

WHERE IS THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE HKS VEIN PRESSURE CONVERTER AND DO U KNOW WHERE I CAN GET IT????CAN SOMEONE HELP ME................IF U KNOW NETHING PLEASE EMAIL ME AZNPNOI984@HOTMAIL.COM THANK YOU .....








RICHARD

[indy1979]

No don't look for the VPC, you're looking for instructions on how to hack your MAS. That is the only thing you can do to the MAS. The VPC takes the place of the MAS. The only problem is that it costs close to $1000.

Sam

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLIES BUT DAMN TOO EXPENSIVE RIGHT NOW IM SAVING MY MONEY FOR MY ENGINE THAT IM GETTING, ITS A AWD TURBO......FOR $1500 AND IT COMES WID EVERYTHING THE TRANNY THE AXLE AND THE CPU....... I CANT WAIT HEHEHEH AIITE THANKS AGAIN PEOPLE FOR YOUR HELP......





RICHARD

[miketribal]

here are a few pics of my ride

here is my 1.8 engine

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/4g63.jpg

the dash afc and stuff

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/int.jpg

the car

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/car.jpg

and the back

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/car3.jpg

what you think so far... its still a work in progress

[indy1979]

ok, looks good. Her are some of mine:

The car (1994 Eagle Talon DL) :

http://personal.bellsouth.net/atl/b/a/barwynen/images/DSCN0192.JPG

My 1.8L engine :

http://personal.bellsouth.net/atl/b/a/barwynen/images/DSCN0206.JPG

My dash :

http://personal.bellsouth.net/atl/b/a/barwynen/images/DSCN0202.JPG

Oh wait, here it is :

http://personal.bellsouth.net/atl/b/a/barwynen/images/DSCN0203.JPG

And last but not least, my OTHER engine :

http://personal.bellsouth.net/atl/b/a/barwynen/images/DSCN0199.JPG

What do ya'll think?!?

Sam

[miketribal]

nice...

right now im trying t get a deal on a turbo motor w ecu/harness/ic/maf... i guess im in for a big job.... some tell me its abut a 2 day affair ... others tell me it next to impossible... im really tossed between the swap an keeping it 1.8... i could use some help... ive dropped som cash on the 1.8 but thats ok... ive also picked up some deals on an uderdrive pulley set/aem cam gears/ bigger injectors/fuel rail and they are just sittin in my backroom waitin for a 2.0 to go on to.... i plan on getting the engine in feb some time. someone please put my mind at rst... iuse this car as a daily driver so 2 or 3 days down isnt bad i can take the days off. am i looking at a lost hope ?

[indy1979]

ok, a little tip for you. I found this out the hard way!!!

if the harness and ecu are not out of the same year/make/model of your vehicle, its not going to work!!!

The control harness has to plug into the cabin harness in like 3 or 4 different places. make sure they are compatable.

Start gathering parts BEFORE the swap, things will go alot smoother.

On the harnesses, there are 2 harnesses that connect together that go to the engine. the main one is the one that goes to the ecu, the other is hard to spot. Its connected to the starter and tranny. The starter harness is compatible between the 1.8 harness and 2.0 harness.

USE DIELECTRIC GREASE ON EVERY ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. I cannot stress that enough.

If you know your way around an engine and engine bay, shouldn't take more than 3 days. 4 tops weather permiting. It will take longer if you have to keep getting parts.

Hope this helps.

Sam

Oh yeah, If you get the turbo engine, you are going to need to get the cabin harness and guage cluster out of the turbo car. The 1.8 cabin harness is missing the wires necessary to show boost and what nots.

[miketribal]

the guy has a turbo car that he is parting out. he said he would give me the harness motor turbo intercooler ecu... im sure hell give me the guage oo. he told me to make a list. its going to cost me like $1200 for everything. so tell me the little things i would neeb to get this to work... also im not just going to dump it in. im going to mount the engine on a stand and rebuild it. im price shopping pistons. i think im getting a set of eagle rods. i think rre has a crank thats lightened and balanced for around 400. im going to pull out the balance shaft... drop in the lighten underdrive set. port and polish the head.mybe bore out the block. aem cam gears. nice big injectors. nitrous kit. front mount ic(later)
i have about half the stuff listed. and getting more every week. my tax return is covering the engine... so please tell me the little things i need to get it to work
thanx

[cdstalon]

Yeah but do you really even need the stock boost guage? It does nothing but estimate boost. Are you sure that ECUs have to be from the same cars, b/c I have an ECU getting ready to be put in my car, but it's not a 1991 like mine, but it's in the 91-94 range.

[miketribal]

i had the same idea... i have a boost gauge i got on ebay for 20 bucks i figured it would work

[indy1979]

I'm not absolutely positive about the ecu. I'm going to try to run my engine on a galant ecu. Hopefully it will work. The pinouts may be different, i'm not positive. You don't necessarily need the stock boost gauge but you will need the cabin harness so you have something to tap the boost gauge into unless you take it directly off the ECU.

Ok the list:

Engine (of course)
motor mounts (all 3)
wiring harness (same year/make/model)
2.0 alternator (the canadian alt. needs modded brackets)
All accessory brackets (A/C, P/S, Alt.)
The 1.8 tranny will bolt up to 2.0 block
upper radiator hose for 2.0
heater core hoses for 2.0
fuel line for 2.0 (the one going from the filter to the rail. The 1.8 is too short)
You are going to have to splice the wires for the oil pressure sending unit. (take the original end that came with the car and extend it to fit on the unit.)

I'll email you more items as I keep putting my engine together.

More tips:

to get the old harness out and the new one in have the a/c evacuated and pull the evaporator core and blower motor from passenger side under dash.

Now would be a good time to replace the heater core if its never been done before.

Hope this helps.

Sam

[1992eclipse]

hey miketribal.. where did you get the white face gauges? and how the heck did you get the valve cover so damn shiny??? i have scrubed the crap out of mine and it still looks nothing like that.. lol.
and where did you guys get your strut bars? i had one but it would hit that little clip on the top of the idle control motor (broke it actully) so i had to take it off.
one more thing.. if any of you guys actullly pull off the 1.8 to 2.0turbo switch can you make a list of the stuff you had to use while doing it (parts). I dont know of anyone who has actully done it. some guys have gone 1.8 to 2.0 and some have gone 2.0 to 2.0turbo ... i dunno about 1.8 to turbo ,thanks everyone.

p.s.~~> Does anyone know a website where you can buy Bullet brand mufflers... not bullet style.. there is an actual brand called bullet. and i want one but the guy by were i like wants a shitload for them.

[miketribal]

how do you remove the heater thing under the glove box....
te harness from the engine runs from alomost behind the battey in? right or is there another one.? now as far as i know 92 - 94 have the same harness type but... the bart for the ecu... my 1.8 ecu is run just like the turbo minuus some wires for stuff like the knock i guess... the ecus from 92 - 94 are the same in the turbo models... and imrunning and afc so i realy dont need to worry about the fuel managment part... my friend has a 91 running a 94 motor they all can interwork...

[indy1979]

Well, everything under the dash is held on by 12mm nuts. basically just undo the nuts and pull. The harness, when it comes out of the fire wall, splits. one part goes to the engine and the other goes to the relay center. There is a wire that goes down under the battery, at the end there will be a connector that you want to undo. Keep the small harness that you just disconnected.

Yes, you are correct that the ECU connectors are the same. They are the same throughout all years and makes. the only differences in the harnesses are the connectors where they plug into the cabin harness (the one that runs under the dash) Those have to plug into each other or you won't be able to do anything let alone starting the car. Nothing will work.

Yes, all 4G63 engines will swap between one another. The only difference in the engines is the internals. When you swap from a 1.8 to a 2.0, thats where things get complicated and confusing.

Sam

[miketribal]

indy is your car going to be na or t ... it looks like it will be


na1992eclipse- i got the guages on ebay...they are indiglo and they were 50$
i used a 2 can set from advanceauto to clean the engine.

i am also thinking of building up a na 4g63 and dropping it in with a fair share of nos dry and wet... then adding a turbo @ 9psi that would spread the cost over while...

[indy1979]

na for the time being. Will add turbo later on after engine gets rebuilt a couple more times. Shouldn't take me more than 2 yrs to get it completely raced out.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

I know this was covered awhile back. But when you advance the timing on the 1.8L, is there only the one bolt holding the dist. to the head? i can only see the one on the top.

[indy1979]

There is only 1 bolt holding the dist. from rotating while the engine is running. Thats the one to loosen when advancing the timing. There are 3 bolts that hold the whole unit to the head. You can find them at the base of the dist. up against the head.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

thanks man

[indy1979]

More parts needed for 1.8 to 2.0 swap!!!!

Fuel Control Relay

For those going turbo from a 1.8:

Fuel Control Relay
Fuel Injector Relay

More to come.

Got the engine all wired up today and started turning it over. Can't actually start it cause I don't have the relay. I'll get that tomorrow.

Sam

[indy1979]

I say get the ones from Black Cat Custom (http://www.blackcatcustom.com). I just got mine a couple of days ago. White face with red back light. Gonna look sweet.


Sam

[Snoopy]

Originally posted by miketribal
here are a few pics of my ride

here is my 1.8 engine

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/4g63.jpg

the dash afc and stuff

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/int.jpg

the car

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/car.jpg

and the back

http://members.aol.com/miketribal/myhomepage/car3.jpg

what you think so far... its still a work in progress

i am new to this site so i guess this is how i reply to you i havnt figured all of this out yet that is why i quoted you........ N/E waysi like they way your engine looks i have started cleaning and adding color to mine too im just curious about how you put an intake on your car i have a 92 1.8L and i dont know what i do with the mass airsensor does the piping add on to mass airsensor and then the airfilter goes over the mass airsensor or does it just kit rid of the mass airsensor all together???

[Mjmnam]

You keep the MAS, the piping would just connect to it, the filter just goes over it.

[indy1979]

Engine is running, idles like shit, but running none the less. So far I've had no spun bearings or lifter tick. Still have to fine tune it and work the bugs out like getting the tach to work.

Contrary to popular belief, you can use any ecu in your car. if yours is a 92, you can use an ecu out of any 91-94 dsm. I currently have a 91 galant ecu in mine and it works. just though I'd let ya'll know.

I'll post some pics shortly.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

Just got a call from the shop. I took it in the have the heater fixed. Turns out all my gaskets were leaking, VC, HG, all of them. Even the timing belt needed replacing. *cries* yea HG is intact, just leaking oil a bit. They said it'd be like $400 for just the HG. $400 for everything else. i'm 16 in high school...how am i gonna get this kinda cash outa my parents?


Damnit!

[indy1979]

Originally posted by Mjmnam
Just got a call from the shop. I took it in the have the heater fixed. Turns out all my gaskets were leaking, VC, HG, all of them. Even the timing belt needed replacing. *cries* yea HG is intact, just leaking oil a bit. They said it'd be like $400 for just the HG. $400 for everything else. i'm 16 in high school...how am i gonna get this kinda cash outa my parents?


Damnit!

I say get a shop manual and start learning, you save butt loads of cash!!

Sam

[Mjmnam]

I know this question has been asked probably 3 million times, but where could i get one for a '90 Eclipse 1.8L?

[TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG]

I bought mine at Checker Auto Parts. It's the Chilton Manual for Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998. it has 1.8L, 2.0L non-turbo, and the 2.0L turbo systems in it. cost about $15 but it's well worth it.

[Mjmnam]

thanks man.

[indy1979]

Originally posted by TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG
I bought mine at Checker Auto Parts. It's the Chilton Manual for Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998. it has 1.8L, 2.0L non-turbo, and the 2.0L turbo systems in it. cost about $15 but it's well worth it.

No, I'm talking about the dealership shop manual. Costs around $80, but it is the most in depth, most detailed manual you can get. It was written as the car was being designed and built. Trust me, this one is worth it.

[BioWeapon-X]

The Haynes repair manual is kick ass
its based on complete teardown and rebuilt
only problem with it is doesn't really give the specs of the cars
by the way does anyone have a site with specs of a 1.8 dsm
including gearing ratios for auto and manual
Thanks

[indy1979]

Um, the dealership manual does...

[Mjmnam]

Ok, where can i get a dealership shop manual?

[90Eclipse]

Ok guys I need help from everyone of you that has a manual for a 1.8L. If you can please list all the Torque Specification. I need the Torque Specs. for: Crank-Block, Rod-Crank, Head-Block, Intake Manifold-Head, Almuninum Engine Case-Block, Water Pump-Block, and Oil Pump-Block.

[miketribal]

hey indy

im going to spend 750 for the nt 2.0 w/ ecu harness fly wheel. he also said hed give me any of the little things... so keep em coming...

has anyone seen a repair manue on cdom? i saw it onetime and now i cant find em....

[indy1979]

Originally posted by miketribal
hey indy

im going to spend 750 for the nt 2.0 w/ ecu harness fly wheel. he also said hed give me any of the little things... so keep em coming...

has anyone seen a repair manue on cdom? i saw it onetime and now i cant find em....

Might as replace every single sensor on the engine, it will help to keep the engine going as long as possible.

Get both harnesses from under the hood. The second one is the one that goes to the starter and tranny.

[DSMninja]

well i have the chiltons and the haynes manuals and the haynes sucks azz compared to the chiltons. if your gonna buy a manual other than the tech one the dealership uses get the chiltons. u will be much happier.:D

[cdstalon]

I say that Haynes suck ass, it seriously lacks detail. I had that and it was like to depressurize the fuel system unplug the electrical relay for the fuel pump. Well, the description of where this was was only true for the AWD turboes, I had to search for that sucker and was kind of guessing as to which one it was. Luckily I got it right.

[indy1979]

YEAH!!!!! Finally got the damn thing to idle right without dying on me everytime I let off the gas. Taking it to work tomorrow to have the emissions done on it, I'm interested to see what it turns out with the EGR disconnected. And its gonna get its first oil change tomorrow with like 15 miles on the odometer. HEHEHE. Also get the new ECU made for "MY" car and not a damned "GALANT".

I will deffinetly say that the haynes sux ass, that is what I was going by when assembling the engine. IT SUCKED!!!!!!! So I got smart and got the dealership manual. IT SO NICE.

Sam

[segaboyvt]

Any of you have a complete list of mods that can be done to a 94 1.8 liter Eclipse, or know where I can go to find this info. Thanks for anything you can help me with.

[miketribal]

well you can drop any exhaust for the 2.0 fwd.. same with any intake for the 2.0 nt as long as they are for 1g dsms. ive heard the down pipes are the same... and you can put ahigh flow cat or test pipe for the 2.0 on he 1.8 (again 1g only fwd) you ca drop an afc on it.. a dry kit (nos/zex/etc) crower will regrind your cam... unorthodox make a lightened crank pulley in fact thy have them on clearence for $50... port out the head..... hope this helps

[BioWeapon-X]

does anybody know if there is a turbo or supercharger out there for our cars

[Mjmnam]

When i refill the brake fluid do i have to bleed all my brakes to get the old stuff out? or can i just pour the new stuff in to the right level?

[cdstalon]

I've always just poured the new stuff in, but then my brakes gave out and a I ran over an old lady so........


Nah just playing =). I've always just poured it straight in, never really had any problems. Now if you are draining the brake fluid totally, that's another story.

[indy1979]

Usually when your brake fluid is low, that means that the pads are wearing down. the fluid takes the place of the pads. When you notice that the fluid is low, have them inspected. Most shops will do it for free, cause they want your business. Just don't go to brakes plus. Also, I've noticed that when I added fluid my pedal got real spongy, I had to push further down to stop. Another result of too much brake fluid. Just my $.02.

Sam

[indy1979]

Originally posted by segaboyvt
Any of you have a complete list of mods that can be done to a 94 1.8 liter Eclipse, or know where I can go to find this info. Thanks for anything you can help me with.

Well, you can always swap in a 2.0L like I did. But thats just me. I wanted to get exempt from emissions, and cheaper insurance on a DL but still have all the power of a GST. HEHEHE.

Sam

[segaboyvt]

Hey guys, thanks for your input. I was kind of wondering if there are any mods besides air intake systems, catback exaust systems, turbos etc. etc. What about the nitty gritty things. The things that by them selves don't add a lot but when put together with the above mentioned they add that extra power. I know a bit but I am sure I don't know everything. I mean, what kind of plugs and wires should I used. Do ignitions kits do anything for power? I'm looking at building the complete package using anything that can be done to a 1.8. I love my car and don't really want ot go out and buy a whole new engine. Thanks.

[Mjmnam]

well, in addition to doing all that stuff, you could bore out the intake and exhaust ports, that'd prolly add some in conjunction with the cat-back system. as far as iginition systems are concerned, the 1.8L ignition system is quite weak, i haven't found anyone that makes a more powerful system for it, and the things like MSD DIS-2 systems and HKS twin power ignition amplifier are more like overkill for our cars. You could also try advancing the timing to eak a bit more power out of your car. with plugs and plug wires, everyone seems to recommend NGK plugs, don't buy the platinum ones, it's a waste of money. As for wires, i use Bosch wires 7mm, never had any problem.

well i have to head back to school now, hope this helps a bit

[mavisky]

Originally posted by indy1979
Engine is running, idles like shit, but running none the less. So far I've had no spun bearings or lifter tick. Still have to fine tune it and work the bugs out like getting the tach to work.

Contrary to popular belief, you can use any ecu in your car. if yours is a 92, you can use an ecu out of any 91-94 dsm. I currently have a 91 galant ecu in mine and it works. just though I'd let ya'll know.

I'll post some pics shortly.

Sam


i just wanted ot reiterate the fact that he said 91-94. he's right, it just bears repeating since a 1990 ecu is different with a a few wires.

also if you cna get to know someone at the dealership then usually yuo can get by with the stuff in a hayne's or chilton's manual and hae them photocopy the stuff you need. that's how i did my ecu wiring work. personally i'd buy the dsm cd before i ever bought the dealer shop manual. there is more than one manual too, i think there's a mechanical repair manual and an electrical manual. they're about $80 each that'ss $160 for it all. i bought my hayne's and cholton's manual for $50 bucks for both.

[indy1979]

Originally posted by mavisky



i just wanted ot reiterate the fact that he said 91-94. he's right, it just bears repeating since a 1990 ecu is different with a a few wires.


Ok, I just swapped in the '94 2.0 N/T ECU for my car and it seems to be idling better. Granted the cams aren't helping much, but thats what the HKS S-AFR is for. Now, let me add to what I said about the ECU's. You can use any ECU from a 91 - 94 DSM EXCLUDING the galant. I traced the pinouts for both ECUs and I think there were like 4 wires that didn't go to the same things. So the Galant ECU will make the engine run, just not exactly right. Hope this helps some.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

Ok, i advanced the timing, but now while accelerating it sounds like something is rattleing, i tightened the dist. down good, but my heat shield is missing two bolts. Would the heat shield be it? or is something inside the engine rattling. (i'd put the bolts back in the heat shield but i can't find any that fit)

[indy1979]

It may be the heat shield. I'd goto to the dealership and get the bolts you need, and see if thats it. Try that first.

Sam

[BioWeapon-X]

hey indy1979 if somebody swaps their engine out with the 2.0 they get exempt from emissions and what about like doing it to another car

[indy1979]

Should be the same with any car. If put a larger motor in it than what originally came from the factory, it will be exempt under the hobby car exemption.

[Mjmnam]

ok, i bolted the heat shield down, and it's still rattling, i turned the timing back a bit and the rattling went away till higher rpms (something like 3k to ? i couldn't hear it over the engine anymore) any other suggestions? or should i just set the timing down even further?

[indy1979]

ok, let me ask you this. How far did you advance the timing? The reason I ask this is because the timing is already advanced from the factory to 8 degrees below top dead center, 5 with the computer bypassed. Just make sure you aren't past maybe 10 or 11 degrees, then you will start to get pinging/detonation. Try retarding it more.

Sam

[miketribal]

hey indy whats this hobby car thing? will i be covered when i do my swap? id prefer no to have to do emisions.. please give me some info to find out more.. thanx

[indy1979]

Well, each state is different. You'd have to go to your local waiver/exemption center to find out the specifics.

But I will tell you this. A properly built engine will always pass emissions. Look at mine. Built head, high rise cams. Passed with flying colors. And this was my first engine build. Tell me that is not cool.

Hope this helps.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

I thought everything came from the factory at 0 degrees BTDC. i just moved it till idle fell and then moved it back to where the idle sat at the highest, something like 900 is where it says it is now, used to be like 750

[indy1979]

That is true with most manufacturers. I think they did these cars this way to help with emissions. If its not burning completely, there will be too much HC in the exhaust. I'm stumped too about why they did it.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

< retard *front of car* advance >
if i'm looking at the front of the car, are these the correct directions for advance/retard?:confused:

[B. Kelly]

Originally posted by Mjmnam
< retard *front of car* advance >
if i'm looking at the front of the car, are these the correct directions for advance/retard?:confused:

Yes, those directions aer correct.


Has anyone tried 1.8 m/t injecters in an 1.8 a/t? I`m wonderind how well the ecu will handle them.

[indy1979]

Um, it should handle them just fine. the 1.8s don't have injector resistor packs like the 2.0. Should be just fine.

Sam

[B. Kelly]

From what i`ve read the 1.8 m/t has larger injecters than the 1.8 a/t. I was wondering how well the ecu would take to them, or if i would notice a diffrence at all. Can anyone verify the diffrent sizes? I guess i could just try it. I have a set and it`s a quick c/o.

[indy1979]

Well, you would probably notice a slight increase, not too much though. But when working with the 1.8s you need all the help you can get.

Sam

P.S. Yes, they are bigger.

[B. Kelly]

I installed the m/t injectors today. There was a noticeable diffrence. That or my old ones were really dirty. :) It was worth the effort.

[Mjmnam]

Originally posted by B. Kelly
I installed the m/t injectors today. There was a noticeable diffrence. That or my old ones were really dirty. :) It was worth the effort.

you get them from a junk yard or something? if so, how much were they? How involved was the installation? I'm pretty sure i wasted my number 1 injector, makes wierd sounds when it sprays. thanks in advance.

[B. Kelly]

I`m not sure how much the bone yard would charge. I purchased a complete 1.8 as a rebuild project. I want to have a spare for when my current motor goes.

As for the change out, it is really easy. All you need is a 12mm socket and 15 minutes.

[dsm_fury]

i gotta 93 eclipse 1.8 when i get to about 3500 rpm i hear this vibrating noise its sounds like its metal but i dont have a clue i only hear it in the first three gears. could i be a loose heat sheild off the exhuast maifold. do you guys have any idea???

steve

[B. Kelly]

That sounds like a good start. Or perhaps the cat heat shield? Can you rev the motor in neutral and still hear it? Does the sound come from the front or rear of the car? Does the sound vary with vehicle speed or motor speed?



Does anyone know, or have access to information on 1.8 block stampings? I would like to figure out what year a block is that i have. The stamp is: 4G37 <----- DUH! :D and JH3806. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Green01GS]

Originally posted by dsm_fury
i gotta 93 eclipse 1.8 when i get to about 3500 rpm i hear this vibrating noise its sounds like its metal but i dont have a clue i only hear it in the first three gears. could i be a loose heat sheild off the exhuast maifold. do you guys have any idea???

steve


Well, I just started working on a 91 Eclipse GS that I bought out of the junkyard for $350, but I have experienced this problem with my 2001 Eclipse GS. I have looked into octane ping, and many other things but can't seem to identify the source. It started shortly after I installed my CAI. I tried putting the OEM stuff back on, but it didn't solve the problem. It has been going on for over 12,000 miles, but I haven't noticed anything negative from it. Other than the fact that it annoys the living sh*t out of me.

In a completely unrelated note, I am VERY new to the whole DSM deal. Is anyone turning high HP from their 1.8, or should I find a nice 4G63 to work into the project? I have spent every free minute (which isn't a whole lot) scouring the forums here, but so far 150HP is the highest I've seen from the 1.8. I'm sure you guys get this question 500 times a week, but I have yet to see an answer. With that said, I suddenly realized that it might be in the FAQ that I neglected to read. Think I will do that now...:rolleyes:

[dsm_fury]

it makes a little noise when i rev it in neutral. its coming from the front of the car and the only time i hear it is between 3000 and 3500 but its short and i only hear it when im accelerating. i dont think its anything seroius, the car has been running tits lately but its annoying.

[indy1979]

Try this, start the car. Get a broom stick and beat on the cat. Some times a baffle will break inside a cat and rattle. That could poosibly be it.

Sam

[dsm_fury]

thanks sam . ill try that when it stops raining out.

i have another queston i was wondering if its possible to swap the head from the 1.8l mirage engine ( not sure what the engine code) i think its 16 v sohc right? to the 4g73. does anyone know that engine code for that engine ?

steve

[TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG]

Are there any headers made for our lovable 1.8's? I know they make headers for the 2.0 nt but I haven't found any for the 1.8.

[Mjmnam]

No.

[Flexx1.8L]

Will a 4g63 MAS work in my 1.8L?

I hacked the wrong honeycomb and finally got it to idle (although very roughly) but it takes 3-4 turns of the key to start up.

[dsm_fury]

(i have another queston i was wondering if its possible to swap the head from the 1.8l mirage engine ( not sure what the engine code) i think its 16 v sohc right? to the 4g73. does anyone know that engine code for that engine ? )


sorry guys i ment the 4g37 i was thinking of swappin the head to a 4g93 head do you guys know where i can get any info on this or if its possible ?
thanks
steve

[indy1979]

Originally posted by Flexx1.8L
Will a 4g63 MAS work in my 1.8L?

I hacked the wrong honeycomb and finally got it to idle (although very roughly) but it takes 3-4 turns of the key to start up.

Believe it or not, they are the same thing.

Sam

[B. Kelly]

Being the tightwad that i am, i replaced the intake hose with pvc. Now it sounds like i have a gear drive. Opps! :P

[indy1979]

Originally posted by B. Kelly
Being the tightwad that i am, i replaced the intake hose with pvc. Now it sounds like i have a gear drive. Opps! :P

Yeah, mine sounds like that, only I have the upper timing belt cover on the 4G63 taken off and the timing belt is tight as shit. There is maybe 1/16th of an inch play in that thing, sounds like a supercharger. I like.

Sam

[Mjmnam]

anyone have the sizes on the 1.8L TB and the 2.0L TB (Throttle Body)? if the 2.0L is bigger, would it fit on the 1.8?

[B. Kelly]

From what i`ve read in these forums the 2.0 bore is 60mm. I just checked a spare throttlebody from a 1.8 that i have and it read 50mm. Wheather or not it would be a simple bolt on i dont know. I`m thinking that an unadjusted ECU would have issues with the larger bore. Er... but do try it and let me know how it works. ;)

[Mjmnam]

first i gotta get my hands on a 2.0L NT TB, my friend has a turbo, the turbo and NT are prolly the same, i'll check his, maybe go to junk yard or something, i'll let you know how it goes when i get around to it.

[indy1979]

I believe that the the 2.0 TB has some more components on it that the 1.8 doesn't. Plus the connectors are prolly gonna be different. Just my $.02

Sam

[Turbo2]

Hey guys, I've noticed that not many things can be done to our cars (1.8's), she's my daily. I've read through here a bit, but I'm tired and had 3 pages to go. I noticed that everyone was talking about the 4g63t engine swap, I was thinking different. Has anyone thought about swapping the engine from the older turbo Mirages in their car? I was thinking that since I have some parts from my other car that I will be replacing and thought if anything from the 4g63t would fit the 1.5l turbo engine? Also, does anyone know of any Turbo Mirage links? I'm really considering making my daily into a street/autox'er. Thanks in advance guys.

[Mjmnam]

Originally posted by indy1979
I believe that the the 2.0 TB has some more components on it that the 1.8 doesn't. Plus the connectors are prolly gonna be different. Just my $.02

Sam

well, if you can get a hold of the two of them, try and do a side by side comparison for us, i know i'll have a hard time getting ahold of the 2.0L one. i wouldn't imagine the connectors would be all that different, maybe some minor things.

one other thing, anyone know the stock 1/4 mile time on the 1.8s?

[miketribal]

i dontiveevr seen a 1/4 time on a 1.8
you never know... maybe there is some psychopath running 14s in some 1.8 from hell...

[Flexx1.8L]

Is anybody here with 1.8's running an aftermarket ignition system? If so, what kind. Are there any stock Mitsu ignition's that would work w/ my 1.8?

Also, is it possible to swap a 1.8L Mirage (16V) head onto a 1.8L 8V DSM? One guy asked this Q before but got no responses.

I've read about platinum plugs damageing our ingniton systems, why is that? And what kind of plug upgrade should I be looking for?

What is the optimum plug gap for a 1.8 for complete combustion?

Thanks.

(Trying to do some "cheap" DIY upgrades to improve "seat of the pants" feel before I sell it for a 2GN.)

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by Flexx1.8L
Is anybody here with 1.8's running an aftermarket ignition system? If so, what kind. Are there any stock Mitsu ignition's that would work w/ my 1.8?

Also, is it possible to swap a 1.8L Mirage (16V) head onto a 1.8L 8V DSM? One guy asked this Q before but got no responses.

I've read about platinum plugs damageing our ingniton systems, why is that? And what kind of plug upgrade should I be looking for?

What is the optimum plug gap for a 1.8 for complete combustion?

Thanks.

(Trying to do some "cheap" DIY upgrades to improve "seat of the pants" feel before I sell it for a 2GN.)

Ignition Systems:

There are ZERO aftermarket ignition systems that are specifically targeted towards the 1.8L. Also, Mitsu does not make another ignition system that'll work with the 4G37 engine (as far as I'm aware of).

This doesn't mean that it's not possible to use an aftermarket ignition, just that there isn't a pre-packaged one that you can just slap on.

It gets a little complex, but in a nutshell you need to hack a dist.cap to accept an external coil input, and you need to do some rewiring of the stock ignition to trigger an MSD box (like the MSD 6A or MSD SCI).

For an idea of what's involved, look here:

http://home.att.net/~t.vago/msd_ignition-howto.html

I looked into this a few months ago, and what I came up with is that there appears to be two different ignition wiring harnesses for the 1.8L (89-93 and one for the 94 I think). I bought a distributor from a 93 1.8L Eclipse from a bone yard, and the wiring was different from the one in my '94 1.8L Eclipse.

The general consensus that I've seen is that an aftermarket ignition won't do much, if anything, on our engines. So, I shelved the idea for the time being.

Mirage Head:

If you ever find out, LET ME KNOW!

Platinum plugs

There is no gain or deficit from running Platinum plugs on a 1.8l engine. The problem people are referring to does not apply to the 1.8l ignition system. The problem is that in cars equipped with a waste spark ignition system, the spark can travel in reverse direction, jumping from the annode to the electrode (from the ground lead to the center of spark plug) and back to the ignition coil. In that type of system, the spark can cause the metal from the annode to deposit on the electrode, eventually causing the plug to foul and fail.

The 1.8l doesn't use this type of electrical system, so this doesn't happen.

[Doc Overclock]

I did a little scouring of the 'net, and the Mirage's 1.8l engine (at least from the 1994 Mirage) is a 4G93.

The 4G93 has a slightly larger bore than the 4G37, but it's still a 1.8L engine.

I talked to a buddy here at work who's done some engine work (on domestic iron), and he suggests getting the head gaskets from both motors. That's one way to see if the 4G93's head will bolt onto the 4G37's block.

Besides the head actually fitting, the only thing that scares me a tad is the distributor. I've never seen a 4G93 engine, and I don't even know if the distributor is located in the same area as the 4G37's.

Sounds like this is a good job for some salvage yards rats to hunt around wrecking yard for.

I found some info, and some projects that may be adapted to our cars here: http://www.dreamwater.com/mirage1/


-Doc

[BioWeapon-X]

If i wanted to turbo the my 1.8, what all would i need to do
what about nos,would have to build the bottom end, and i m guessing i d have to fabricate a turbo manifold
also do our engines have the oil squirters

[Doc Overclock]

I asked this question on Mirage Performance's EzBoard:

http://pub29.ezboard.com/bmirageperformance


The answer I got is "no", but there's different versions of the 4G37 and 4G93 engines (EFI and Carburated). The only way to know is to try it I guess....


BUT... supposedly there's some different revisions of the 1.8L 4G37 engine. One of the revisions has 30% larger intake and exhaust valves.

Oh well.. Anybody have a '94 Mirage that has a 4G93 in it that can take some pictures of the engine? I'm interested in seeing if the heads are even similar...


-Doc

[Flexx1.8L]

Mirage engine pics (1.8L) (http://www.dreamwater.com/mirage1/tuning2.html)

Pic of a mirage engine, the valve conver is different I see, really clean engine compartment. I still cant see the placement of the distributer.

[B. Kelly]

The distributer is on the passerger side where the t-stat would be on a 4g37.

From what i can tell, ?-94 the 4g93 1.8 was mounted the same as the 4g37 (timing belt on drivers side). 95 and up the 4g93 is mounted the other way (timing belt on passenger side) but the intake is still next to the firewall and exhaust is next to radiator. Someone please correct me if i`m wrong. If a 4g93 head was to fit on a 4g37 block i would think a pre 95 head is the way to go.

I can find pictures online of 4g37 head gaskets all day long, but i can`t find a single one for a 4g93. :mad:

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by B. Kelly
The distributer is on the passerger side where the t-stat would be on a 4g37.

From what i can tell, ?-94 the 4g93 1.8 was mounted the same as the 4g37 (timing belt on drivers side). 95 and up the 4g93 is mounted the other way (timing belt on passenger side) but the intake is still next to the firewall and exhaust is next to radiator. Someone please correct me if i`m wrong. If a 4g93 head was to fit on a 4g37 block i would think a pre 95 head is the way to go.

I can find pictures online of 4g37 head gaskets all day long, but i can`t find a single one for a 4g93. :mad:

If you look at the info for the pic, it says that it's a mirage95l (something like that).

The distro scares me. You *MAY* be able to use the 4g37's distributor, but your going to have to extend all of the leads. There's no guarantee that the timing will be right afterwards either. :(

Also, if you look at that picture, the spark plugs are on the opposite side of the engine. :(


-Doc

[dsm_fury]

man that sucks youi can swap those heads. i read that you can put the 1.6l mivec head on the 4g93 block making it a 1.8l mivec but i hear those engines are hard to get a hold cause there rare and they have never sold them in the us.. but man i would love to have it under my hood i think the specs are like 172 bhp ??? and it has a 8500 red line:D what do you guys think

[segaboyvt]

Hi Guys,

Here is that car that houses that Mivec engine.

http://www.coltmania.de/race_r4b.htm

[Doc Overclock]

Here's something even better. All that's needed is one brave soul to try to mount this on their 4G37:

http://www.rpw.com.au/New%20Website/Turbo/T300/t301.html


-Doc

[B. Kelly]

Does anyone know how many psi is on the high side of the power steering pump?

[indy1979]

Originally posted by B. Kelly
Does anyone know how many psi is on the high side of the power steering pump?

Why:confused: ?!?

[B. Kelly]

I have two extra pumps, tons of three quarter horse motors, and an extra power washer wand. Just an idea. Dont know if there would be lubrication issues with water instead of steering fluid? Is it enough psi? Even with an over sized pulley on the motor? Internal rust? Hey like i said, just an idea.

[indy1979]

well, the reason that everything, besides coolant, has hydraulic tendencies is because it won't compress. If you put water under pressure, the air in the water will compress, rendering it useless. Sorry to smash your idea, but the compressor will just keep compressing the water bringing the psi to way above the limit or the lines. That and thing will start to rust.

Sam

[B. Kelly]

I appreciate your response, but you lost me. I was thinking of a home made power washer running off an electric motor. If i understand your post correctly, your saying that water will compress??

[indy1979]

ok, are you trying to make a pressure washer? I thought that you were going to convert your power steering over to water. My bad.

Sam

[B. Kelly]

I`m sorry if i confused you. Yes i was thinking about a pressure washer.

[Mjmnam]

ok, i've used the search, but i didn't find many DETAILS

what do i need for a 1.8 to 2.0 N/A swap? (1G)
i found
engine (obviously)
wiring harness (for my model year)
rear engine mount
and something else...i forget right now

is there anything else i would need? and would everything pretty much just bolt up?
i have a 1990 Eclipse GS 1.8L

[miketribal]

ok... here is what i know
ecu
wire harness
motor mounts
flywheel (6 or 7 bolt pending on what your cr needs)
header (down pipe is the same w/1.8
try to get all the little things
ie.. nuts and bolts/ any other wires/maf aways good to have a spare/fuel stuff/the 2.0 tranny (your 1.8 tranny will bolt on too with a new flywheel (get a new clutch while your in there)
anda good weekend worth of time...

if you can get a donor then cool... but its important to get as much little sh!t as you can... id hate to b right of the middle of the swap and not have a small tiny piece.. that would suck..

i will be doing the swap too... so il lpost anything here too

[Mjmnam]

so i pretty much need everything in the engine bay except the battery....hmmm
i gotta go to a junk yard to find some of this outa a wrecked one, i'm doing the swap cause my engine is just short of blown ( runs, but the rods seem to have taken a new liking to the cylinder walls, and enjoy frequent contact now) so i'm doing this cause i thought the engine swap would be cheaper than a new car :D

[miketribal]

sounds good or you could buy another 1.9 engine for 300 bucks and drop it in...

[Mjmnam]

yea, i could, but i've heard they're a real B17CH to find since there weren't that many purchased, i may as well upgrade while i'm at it anyway

[Flexx1.8L]

Did someone say B17C?

Drop'n a B18C5 in my new Del Sol after the 1gn get's sold (bidders anyone??)

:D

[Mjmnam]

B17CH leet spelling for bitch....

[BioWeapon-X]

How much do those turbo kits from this site http://www.rpw.com.au/New%20Website/Turbo/T300/t301.html
or are they just plans for turboing

[TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG]

Originally posted by Mjmnam
i have a 1990 Eclipse GS 1.8L

Uhhhh....You don't have a GS 1.8L

You either have an Eclipse GS 2.0 nt or an RS 1.8 nt.

Sorry, just had to clarify a typo :)

[MindBlowin03]

Originally posted by TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG


Uhhhh....You don't have a GS 1.8L

You either have an Eclipse GS 2.0 nt or an RS 1.8 nt.

Sorry, just had to clarify a typo :)
Actually, there was no RS and Eclipse did have a GS 1.8L. It was an option. You can get base model(1.8) or GS(1.8 or 2.0)

[B. Kelly]

Originally posted by mindblowin03

Actually, there was no RS and Eclipse did have a GS 1.8L. It was an option. You can get base model(1.8) or GS(1.8 or 2.0)

The RS was used on the Laser.

[Mjmnam]

that and the back of my car says "Eclipse GS"

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by Mjmnam
that and the back of my car says "Eclipse GS"

... and that explains why I once saw a '94 Eclipse GS that had a tach that only went to 8K RPM. I thought the seller had put it there to either dupe people, or just to "rice" it out.

Given that, I'm assuming that there was no GS-T 1G Eclipse, just the base model, GS (1.8, 2.0, and 2.0 turbo), and GSX. The GS-T was only on the 2G, right?

-Doc

[indy1979]

Originally posted by Doc Overclock


... and that explains why I once saw a '94 Eclipse GS that had a tach that only went to 8K RPM. I thought the seller had put it there to either dupe people, or just to "rice" it out.

Given that, I'm assuming that there was no GS-T 1G Eclipse, just the base model, GS (1.8, 2.0, and 2.0 turbo), and GSX. The GS-T was only on the 2G, right?

-Doc

Yes, that is correct. The GS 1G has a sticker on the side that says either 16 Valve DOHC or 16 Valve DOHC Turbo. The DL and GS 1.8L's don't have any stickers (as far as I know).

[Doc Overclock]

Originally posted by indy1979


Yes, that is correct. The GS 1G has a sticker on the side that says either 16 Valve DOHC or 16 Valve DOHC Turbo. The DL and GS 1.8L's don't have any stickers (as far as I know).

At least not any stickers from the factory. :D


-Doc

[TaLoNBLiNGBLiNG]

Oops, for some reason i thought he had a 2g. My bad.

[90Eclipse]

Hey, I read this somewhere on another post and want to know if it is true or not, so is it true that when the timing belt breaks on a 1.8 it doesn't mess up the valves or pistons?

[B. Kelly]

The 1.8 does not destroy pistons or valves when the timing belt goes.

[segaboyvt]

Yeah, it's ture. I talked to the guys at the local Mitstibishi dealership and they said that it's called a non-valve interferance engine. They said it cost $400 dollers to replace the two belts or $400 when they break. The only differance being the towing charge unless you have AAA or something equivelant.

[segaboyvt]

They also told me that even though the manual says to change them at 60,000 miles that the belts are good for more then 120,000. But I would still recomend changing them when you can so you are not left in a tight situation when one of then breaks. One of them is actually the timing belt while the other is for something else. I forget what, but they recomend changing them both at the same time.

[Mjmnam]

Originally posted by segaboyvt
They also told me that even though the manual says to change them at 60,000 miles that the belts are good for more then 120,000. But I would still recomend changing them when you can so you are not left in a tight situation when one of then breaks. One of them is actually the timing belt while the other is for something else. I forget what, but they recomend changing them both at the same time.

balance shaft belt

[segaboyvt]

Thats right! Thanks Mjmnam.

[Mjmnam]

bump

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

hey sup people i was wonderin is there someone out there who make performance muffler for our 1.8L eclipses????is so plz let me know thanx in advance.....and i was wondering is there a MSD ignition for my 93 Eclipse 1.8L if so how much differecne would it do??????thanx again in advance.......

[Doc Overclock]

Don't know about the muffler, but I assume that any high-flow muffler for a 1G should work (since it's one of those universal parts that works on either engine). If I'm wrong about that, I'm pretty sure somebody will correct me.

As for the MSD unit, there's none available that will just drop in. The 1.8 uses an intergrated distributor/ignition coil setup. I looked into this already, and theoretically there IS a way to hook one up to the 1.8l, but it's questionable what gains you'd get from it. Do a search on this board and you'll see a few posts I did about it in the past.

-Doc

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

oh my bad i didnt mean bout the muffler i meant a performance headers i guess i wasnt thinkin straight i already hav a muffler so if ne one knows bout the headers please let me know thanx in advance

[Mjmnam]

Originally posted by iSlAnDrAcEr7o2
oh my bad i didnt mean bout the muffler i meant a performance headers i guess i wasnt thinkin straight i already hav a muffler so if ne one knows bout the headers please let me know thanx in advance

no one makes headers for the 1.8L

[Mjmnam]

well, my ol' 1.8 has finally crapped out on me. decided against a rebuild because i'll only put as much into a car as i payed for it. :( :( :( my parents bought me a 2k2 Cavalier. i figure i'll drive it for a few years then try to sell it and get back into DSMs. until now i have to deal with guys who think anyone who drives an import is a ricer.

[1992eclipse]

That sucks mjmnam, sorry to hear that. Do you know what exactly happened with it? What broke that made it really crap out? My car doesnt run perfect either. I need a new clip on the top of my ISC motor (i think thats what its called) Its the thing that controls the idle its connected to the throtle body right on the top. It has a red clip on the top of it. I need a new clip for that, the half thats connected to the wires specifically. If anyone has/can get one of those off a spare engine or mjmnam if you are parting out your engine i would like to buy it. If anyone has one shoot me a pm or an email at dcb2000eh@aol.com Thanks guys

[iSlAnDrAcEr7o2]

sup i was wondering how much will it cost to poor polish(dont know if i spelled it right) your headers......and will it still pass smog check????also has neone figured out how to stopp the annoyin popping sound after letting go the gas mine neva didn that b4 when i first got my thermal exhaust.....can someone tell me how to stopp it cuz its gettin on my nerves it sounds like 4th of July came early this yeah heh......

[indy1979]

just take the car down to a local machine shop and ask them to port match your headers. Its the head that gets the port and polish.

[Doc Overclock]

Port and Polishing your intake isn't terribly expensive if you take out the manifold and bring it to the machine shop.

MikeTribal did this, and I think he said it cost around $75 (an hour I think...). Do a search, and you should be able to find the info.

If they have to take out the manifold themselves, it's going to cost more.

I don't see there being an issue with emissions after doing this, but you never know. Mike, any trouble getting your car passed after doing this?



-Doc

[miketribal]

no proplems with emissions... but thn again i dont run a cat unless i go get inspected...

[segaboyvt]

Is the Weapon -R intake system the only good intake system for our 1.8. A guy at the local shop said that it was the only one he recomends. He say's everything else is crap. Not knowing much about this stuff, I wanted to get a second opinion. So what of it, anybody?

[segaboyvt]

Hey guies, I got some images of my car along with my brothers 2000NX. Check em' out. I'm still working on mods for my car.

[segaboyvt]

Anybody know how to post images on this site.

Thanks

[miketribal]

for intakes we can use the dragon intake , injen... and i think the k&n... or you can just by a k&n filter and have a custum intake pipe made.. thats what idid

also i just picked a 2.0 non turbo engine w/harness for 200. i starrted strippin it down today... hopefully within the next few months ill be able to build it up and fill it with the juice.

[segaboyvt]

Thanks for the info. Hope the engine upgrade goes well for you.

[miketribal]

me too... im currently tearing the engine apart.. any info from you other swappers please let me know..

[segaboyvt]

How much does a custome intake pipe cost.

[miketribal]

mine was 80.
im thining about selling it cause of my swap.

[segaboyvt]

HMMM!!! Do you have picture of this pipe? How does it perform compared to the market built systems? Any info on that. I might be interested if you're selling it.

[miketribal]

take a look on page 5 of this thrad youll see pic of my engine bay... i put alittle k&n sicker on... but thats removable... and it is chromed

[segaboyvt]

Ok, I saw the pics. The pipe looks pro to me. I wouldn't have known. I'm still interested. Let me know when you get ready to sell it. What would you ask for it? As for the K&N sticker, not an issue, I already have a K&N filter. :D