View Full Version : Finally installed shift kit and end clutches
ATF 2GTalon
10-21-2002, 09:02 PM
Well after having the Translab kit sitting in my room for 6 months I finally got around to installing it. The end clutches were a piece of cake to put in and the shift kit wasn't so hard either. Thanks Charles (tsi91at) for the pics and instructions. I never would have done them myself if he hadn't done a vfaq. Total time was about 13 hours over a span of several days. I was being so careful and doublechecking everything and it was all well worth it. I put in the BSOD and its nowhere near as harsh as everyone says it is. I barely notice it at all. It still does take some getting used to since the next gear kicks in rather abruptly if you aren't expecting it especially around sharp turns. But otherwise BSOD is the way to go.
Suprisingly at only 35k miles, my end clutches looked brand new and I always drive with OD on. No abnormal wear, no warping. Tranny fluid smelled brand new too, with no hint of ever being burnt.
BoostedTSi
10-24-2002, 01:34 AM
Way to go. Nice to here that everything went okay. Let us know the difference when you take it to the track.:)
just curious whats the kit cost and does it reduce the slipping between gears thing? Also any added launch quality?
ATF 2GTalon
10-31-2002, 02:45 PM
Total cost for the shift kit and end clutches is about $150, filter and gasket is $36 and 7 qts of ATF is about $35.
The shifts are firmer and faster than stock. Haven't tried a launch yet tho, but I don't think it will be that much improved. The transmission definitely feels a lot smoother and more direct on the highway.
LowFourteen95
10-31-2002, 04:20 PM
I also have a 1995 Talon Tsi AT, though mine is AWD. Did you have to drill any holes in your valve body castings or modify that 2nd/4th band? The VFAQ looks easy enough, but I just want to know if there is anything left out of the VFAQ that I should look out for.
ATF 2GTalon
10-31-2002, 05:23 PM
There are a total of about 7 holes that need to be drilled on the separator plates. As long as you have the proper drill bit sizes, its fairly easy. Just make sure to secure the plate onto a flat surface before you drill so it doesn't move on you. Installing the kit is pretty simple. Just need to take your time and double check everything.
Matts95GSX
10-31-2002, 05:34 PM
Where do you get the TransLab shift kit and end clutches at? I have looked and searched on this site and I can't ever get an answer. For everyone on this thread that has one, did you guys get them online or do you have to go to a local shop?
LowFourteen95
10-31-2002, 09:27 PM
See the website, www.plymouthlaser.com or email charles@plymouthlaser.com. I just ordered mine this past weekend, and they arrived today. Hope I don't screw something up now:)
LowFourteen95
11-13-2002, 11:46 PM
Alright, yes, I did manage to screw something up with the install of the shift kit. I followed the vfaq and the instructions but something is wrong. I get no motion in any gear, not even reversse. The engine will rev, although it feels like it may have some resistance, didn't really rev it too high. In neutral, it also seems to want to go forward. Does anybody know what may be causing this?
Did you align the parking pawl with the valve correctly? The parking pawl sits in the little cut or hole on the valve. If not, it probably broke when the shifter moved and it just acts like it's in N.
LowFourteen95
11-14-2002, 09:14 AM
I'm not certain that the pawl and valve were aligned correctly but a valid attempt was made to mate them correctly. Without the valve body in place, I had a friend move the shifter through all the gears, to get an idea of how the pawl moved. It is the black vertical post right? Then I made it so that the "post" sat in the "half circular slit" of the manual vavle as oriented with the flat side horizontal. Everyone talks about this being difficult to describe so that is my best attempt at it. After speaking with Dean, of TransLab, he suggested it must lie in the manual valve or possibly the N-D valve that may have "blown out" under pressure. He also asked if I had installed the plug in the end of my manual valve correctly, which I know many people do not even install at all and are fine. My plug is installed, but it was kind of mutilated in the process because it took so much force to insert it that the hole is much larger than it should be, but I didn't think it would be a huge prob, since many on here run no plug at all.
LowFourteen95
11-14-2002, 09:36 AM
I just wanted to add that I can get just a little bit of forward motion in each gear. But even if you rev it up, it won't go more than a half mph or so. My 1/4 E.T. is probably about 3-4 hours now.
sounds right. The pawl sits in the little slit. I just slowly tighned the VB in place while making sure there's no preasure on the valve. Did the valve move back and forth properly when you moved the shifter? If all fails just pull the VB back out, take it all apart and rebuild it while making sure everything is in there the way it's suposed to. When my tranny problems where just plain weird right after messing with the VB, rebuilding my VB would fix it just about everytime.
LowFourteen95
11-14-2002, 06:50 PM
Took it all back apart. Manual valve and N-D valve were fine. Appears the the lower valve body is damaged because the damper clutch control valve is stuck inside and won't move. This likely happend because the aftermarket filter I bought was too thin and bolts bottomed out. Does anybody have a spare lower valve body they are willing to part with or know where i can find one for a reasonable price?
tsi91at
11-20-2002, 02:33 PM
Try mitsubishi graveyard http://www.mitsubishigraveyard.com/. Most Junk yards want to sell you the whole tranny. I hear his prices are fair for the part.
I have a few spares but want to keep them for cores.
Charles
http://www.plymouthlaser.com
LowFourteen95
11-21-2002, 03:42 AM
Well, I got the replacement valve body from mitsu graveyard, which I highly recommend, great service. And after swapping the lower valve body for my damaged one, and reinstalling the valve body, I still have the same symtoms. I didn't really think that the damper clutch problem would fix what was happening, but was hopeful. I have talked to Dean and he has never heard of my problem happening before. If I try to rev it in park, there is resistance as if I am brake torqing almost, but doesn't roll forward. There is no reverse either. In fact, it tries to jump forward when I put it in reverse but won't really go anywhere. I can get it to roll very slowly forward in D. I know my manual valve is fine, because I've done the install twice now and haven't broken it yet. Any transmission aces out there know what is wrong?
If your car worked fine before you tocuhed the vavlve body and installed the shift kit, then it has to be in the valve body. Make sure all the seals are there, and redo it untill it works. I mean like tear it all apart, take all the valves out and start from scratch. I've been there before when mine didn't work. I had to rebuild it like four times before I got it to work right the first time.
tsi91at
11-21-2002, 07:42 AM
If Dean doesnt know I definitely do not. He is the authority on these transmissions. Try pulling codes (refer to sticky). See if maybe a wire or ground is loose.
There are a lot of little things that can cause big problems when doing a shift kit.....
If there were issues before the shift kit then it could be elsewhere and turned into a different problem.
Charles
http://www.plymouthlaser.com
LowFourteen95
11-22-2002, 02:12 AM
I had my car flatbedded to a local transmission guy. He hasn't seen a mitsu tranny in a number of years though. What all seals are there...far as I know it is just the single o ring on top. Unless there is an error in the unstructions, everything is ok. And my car had no problems before shift kit, only 58k.
LowFourteen95
11-22-2002, 02:14 AM
I lost my directions in the processs of transporting my car to the shop, so if somebody can scan in and email me a copy of them, or give me dean's phone number again, that would be great, thanks.
LowFourteen95
12-06-2002, 11:41 PM
I think I have finally found the reason for my transmission's obsenely bizarre behavior. The End Clutch, that right, the end clutch, which I upgraded with the Alto components at the same time as the shift kit. I rebuilt the valve body twice myself and the mechanic also rebuilt it twice himself, finding nothing out of place. The electronics checked out. The pump had good pressure. With all the electronics disconnected, it would go into 3rd, while the gear selector was in neutral, but bind up in any other position. Even a perfectly good valve body out of another car produced the same results.
Here is the believed problem. When I installed all the upgraded frictions and steels, they were very tight, and in fact had to tap the snap ring in with a hammer and screwdriver. Apparently (i'm not a transmission guru) there is supposed to be some play there. With them being in there tight, its like 3rd gear is always engaged. That's right, we use the end clutch for 3rd also, not just overdrive. So why did my Alto components not fit properly? Has anyone else had this problem? I had heard so many great things about them, but am somewhat upset that they caused me this expensive problem.
Well I always ran my stock endclutches, never really had a problem with them, except they started to slip in the 2 to 3 shift a little when I ran 11s, and that's even when they're brand new, but if I didn't spray they worked fine. Personally I wouldn't upgrade them unless they wear out or your running deep 11s. I never worn any out either but I'm also on my fourth tranny :D . Have you checked www.plymouthlaser.com for the endclutch install instructions?
eagletalonawd
12-07-2002, 02:50 AM
Originally posted by LowFourteen95
I think I have finally found the reason for my transmission's obsenely bizarre behavior. The End Clutch, that right, the end clutch, which I upgraded with the Alto components at the same time as the shift kit. I rebuilt the valve body twice myself and the mechanic also rebuilt it twice himself, finding nothing out of place. The electronics checked out. The pump had good pressure. With all the electronics disconnected, it would go into 3rd, while the gear selector was in neutral, but bind up in any other position. Even a perfectly good valve body out of another car produced the same results.
Here is the believed problem. When I installed all the upgraded frictions and steels, they were very tight, and in fact had to tap the snap ring in with a hammer and screwdriver. Apparently (i'm not a transmission guru) there is supposed to be some play there. With them being in there tight, its like 3rd gear is always engaged. That's right, we use the end clutch for 3rd also, not just overdrive. So why did my Alto components not fit properly? Has anyone else had this problem? I had heard so many great things about them, but am somewhat upset that they caused me this expensive problem.
When I originally bought my first Alto End Clutch upgrade, mine came with an extra steel or friction. I can't remember which, but maybe you accidently put an extra one in? :confused:
tsi91at
12-07-2002, 11:56 AM
My page says it all. Should be 4 frictions and 4 steels. Ive heard the non turbos may be different but I do not mess with non turbos myself. I know someone who has one I may look at just for the knowledge.
The snap ring should have clearance as specified in the instructions within the Alto kit.
I can always get the parts if needed (IE snap rings and so on.). The only thing I cant get is Translab kits, but Dean Mason can sell those to anyone.
I'm glad you have it fixed. When I sell a kit to someone I want it to work. If not, I usually try my best to help them, but lately work is overwhelming.....
Charles
http://www.plymouthlaser.com <<< New Car!!
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