1.8L with some probs just trying to get some answers

[bobby3269]

I love my non turbo car don't hate on it.

First my car is a 93 eclipse 1.8L with about 150,000 miles and it burns a lot of oil and i was wondering if that was normal.

Next my serpentine belt has broke 3 times in the past 6 months and i was wondering how to stop this belt from breaking so much.

Lastly my idle will not stay constant it goes from like 1300 to 500 rpms and I was asking how I could fix this.

Thanks
Bobby

[ginsu417]

At 150,000 miles, oil burning isn't uncommon. More than likely your rings and valve seals are going and an engine rebuild is going to be necessary to cure the problem. With the car running, remove the passengers side hose that goes to the valve cover and kink the driver's side one. You should hear a click. That's the PCV valve shutting. Now hold your hand over the passengers side breather outlet on the valve cover. If you feel hot air, you've got blow-by and an engine rebuild is necessary. If not, it may just be the valve stem seals. I'd recommend you pick up a good repair manual (chilton or the factory one) before you head into correcting any oil burning problems. If the car is LEAKING oil, that's another story. Common leak points are, the front and rear crankshaft seals, and the valve cover seal.

Breaking your serpentine belt (alternator belt, I assume) is normally the result of a bad guide, or maladjusted belt. If you're making the belt too tight or too loose, it will squeal or whine until it breaks. It may also be a worn bearing in the alternator, or water pump. It may also be rubbing against the timing cover. Take the belt out before it breaks and examine it for uneven wear, or signs of rubbing. Check your alternator. The lower bolt should be tight. If it isn't, your alternator is cocked, and is wearing the belt unevenly.

Your idle problem is one that plagues many DSMers. It could be anything from the ECU to the idle control motor. The 1st thing to check would be your idle adjustment. The procedure is to find the connector on the firewall near the battery that has a plastic cap on it, take the cap off and ground the connector. This stops the computer's ignition advance and lets it know you're doing a minor tune-up. Then adjust the base idle set screw (phillips head screw) until RPM is between 650 and 750. The other screw (slotted-head screw) is for the computer adjustment. This will adjust how much the computer compensates for idle drops - like when you turn the AC on, when the radiator fan comes on or other high loads, and when you dump the clutch after deceleration (notice, the Idle drops below your set point and the computer "catches" it).

The next thing is to clean the throttle body. If oily gunk gets into your vacuum lines, it will clog the air passages in throttle body causing erratic idle problems. Another thing that causes erratic idle is vaccum leaks. Replace your vacuum hoses, you can get a foot of 1/8" line for about $1.00. While you're cleaning your throttle body, you should be replacing the gasket.

If this fails to solve your idle problem, you'll want to start looking at electronics. Your idle air control motor and your ECU. If you haven't replace the capacitors in your ECU, do it before it's too late. There's a procedure on VFAQ.com. The idle air control motor is a common problem, but it's expensive, and I wouldn't change it until the ECU throws a code for it.

- K

[bobby3269]

Thanks ginsu I will try some of that and if that doesn't work im just going to get a motor straight from Japan.

[fast1.8sohcDSM]

Don't only think that this belt could be breaking because of the alternator, if your water pump seizes up now and again, it will bust belts just as well.