View Full Version : oil pump sprocket removal
spinixguy
04-19-2003, 10:38 PM
I have had an oil leak for quite some time and I finally decided to replace the oil pump seal and the crank seal and see if that does the trick. While I am in there, I figured I would replace the timing belt and the balance shaft belt. No problem I thought. I have a 3000gt VR-4 and the timing belt was a mother on that one so this had to be cake. Well, I was wrong.
I got into the area ok, about an hour and 45 minutes to take it all apart and get the timing belt off. Had a little trouble with the crank sprocket and had to use a chain wrench, but I got it off. Pulled out the inspection plug and inserted a phillips into the hole. Slapped the breaker bar on the oil sprocket and snap went my screwdriver. Now I have to take the oil pan off to retrieve the
rest of my screwdriver. ok, lets put another one in there that is a little thicker. This time the sprocket spun with the screwdriver in the hole. I can not turn it by hand , but the breaker bar spins it past. Anyone have any ideas on how to get the oil sprocket off.
I would hate to put the thing back together with out replacing the oil seal.
Thanks,
Joseph
91 Laser 1.8L
MNGSX
04-19-2003, 10:47 PM
Mine was a bitch too.
I had to pad a vise with wood and clamp the pump sprocket in it. I then used an impact wrench set low. It was tight.
spinixguy
04-19-2003, 10:49 PM
I was thinking about puting the chain wrench on it, but did not want to damage the sprocket. Might try that in the morning anyway.
Blackboost
04-20-2003, 02:06 PM
Originally posted by spinixguy
I was thinking about puting the chain wrench on it, but did not want to damage the sprocket. Might try that in the morning anyway.
How about using a "puller"? It's the same tool that shops use when they want to take out crankshaft sprockets that are bitch to get out. You could also try spraying some WD-40 on the shaft that holds the sprocket.;)
luv4turbos
04-20-2003, 02:12 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Blackboost
[B]
How about using a "puller"?
Thats a good idea im glad someone is thinking cause I couldn't think of one.
MNGSX
04-20-2003, 05:04 PM
The problem is the nut not the pully sliding off the shaft.
The puller needs a lip to grab and the lip is actually a seperate part than the pulley.
Blackboost
04-20-2003, 08:25 PM
Originally posted by MNGSX
The problem is the nut not the pully sliding off the shaft.
The puller needs a lip to grab and the lip is actually a seperate part than the pulley.
Ohh, I thought you guys were talking about the sprocket only. The following has helped me in a few ocassions:
1. Reinstall the old belt once again and put the car in gear.
2. Go ahead and try to remove the nut now.;)
spinixguy
04-20-2003, 08:32 PM
I hooked up the chain wrench and after about 80 lbs of torque the thing came off. Not sure why it was on there so tight. Now I just need to get the rest of my screwdriver out of the oil pan and I can check my handy work.
spinixguy
04-22-2003, 08:54 AM
well, the car is all back together and purring like an old cat.
good bye oil leak.
spinixguy
05-07-2003, 04:51 PM
Ok, I changed out my crankshaft oil seal because it was leaking and now I have an even worse oil problem. What is going on here?:confused:
I pulled out the old one, made sure the crank was smooth, oiled up the new seal and tapped it in with a socket. Did I do something wrong? It did not leak for a few days, but now it is leaking a quart a week.
Joseph
91 laser 1.8l oil spitter.
ginsu417
05-08-2003, 01:45 PM
How many miles you got on your car? Blow-by will push your new seal right off the crank. You have to glue it in the hole with Permatex #2 on the sides, and RTV on the front and back.
Also, did you remove the oil pan? If you didn't leay a 1/4" bead of RTV on there when you put it back, it will leak like crazy.
spinixguy
05-08-2003, 04:10 PM
Just hit 100,000 miles. I am going to tear it apart this weekend and take a look and see what is going on. A guy at the local parts store
told me that I did not get the seal in there flush.
one of the lips is not oriented properly. I will know more once I get it apart.
Joseph
91 Laser 1.8l
MNGSX
05-08-2003, 04:16 PM
Its got to go in real straight.
I have had no problems what so ever with grey RTV on the sides of the seal!
spinixguy
05-08-2003, 11:25 PM
are we talking a little dab of RTV on the sides, or a glob?
How is it going to react with the oil I have to put on the seal?
MNGSX
05-08-2003, 11:36 PM
Put it a film on the outside of the seal and drive it into the front cover (or rear cover depending on what seal).
Once it has set then apply a bit of oil to the seal lips.
Don't oil the outside edge of the seal the RTV will act as a lube and a sealant when dry.
If the seal went in straight and to the correct location you should'nt need more than a little RTV to hold it!
spinixguy
05-09-2003, 12:02 AM
so I do not oil the seal before putting it in?
MNGSX
05-09-2003, 11:10 AM
Oil can be used to make a seal go in easier. I recomend not using oil. The RTV will do the job of the oil as far as being a bit slippery (compared to dry rubber). When the RTV drys the seal aint going nowhere.
spinixguy
05-09-2003, 08:25 PM
Well, I will give it a shot in the morning. You just have to love taking everything apart again.
spinixguy
05-10-2003, 05:29 PM
Well, It was a nice day to work on the car. Only 92 degrees. Fun, Fun, Fun. Anyway, looks like part of the crankshaft oil seal inner lip was not seated correctly and causing the leak. I replaced it and so far so good. Hopefully it will stay that way.
Joseph
91 laser 1.8l
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